Archive of ‘Alignment and Placement’ category

Multi-Needle Monday – Centering on Quick-Snap

Recently, my Stitching Sister, Marie Zinno, showed me how she quickly centers an item on Quick-Snap. Since the Jnaome, Baby Lock or Brother multi-needle machines do not recognize Quick-Snap, it’s up to the user to ‘embroider responsibly’. Embroidering responsibly means taking complete control of the machine and telling it what to do instead of letting the machine tell you what it can do. When you attach a Quick-Snap frame, be aware of the size of the frame opening and the design you are trying to fit into that space because the machine thinks a large hoop is attached. Always select a frame that is at least 1” larger than the design and trace the design before actually stitching.

Here’s Marie’s tip on the easiest way to center the design. Select your design (1” smaller than the frame) and attach just the bottom frame to the machine. Retrieve the design and trace the design watching where the embroidery foot will travel. In the image below, you can see the first needle is dropped during the tracing motion. This needle is your indication of where all the needles will travel during all colors of the design. QS1
If it looks like the foot will clear the frame, you’re in good shape.
QS2
If not, use the positioning keys on the screen to move the design and retrace. QS3
Touch the camera icon on the screen and a view of what the needle sees appears on the screen. QS4
I have a target sticker designating the center of my design on a knit ski cap so I slid the hat over the frame.
QS5
On the screen, I watched as I move the hat to align the target sticker with the machine’s green crosshair. Perfect! QS6
I attached the acrylic top, dropped the magnets in place. QS7
How sweet is that? Thanks Marie!

So what do you do if you don’t have the camera? If you don’t have the camera, follow all the steps above but instead of using the camera to align the crosshair, use the needle. Slide the hat over the frame and position the target sticker directly under the needle (the one in the dropped position), verify the crosshair is square to the frame and trace one more time. (If you don’t have the camera and it’s available for your machine, I strongly suggesting upgrading, it’s a worthwhile investment.) If the camera isn’t available for your machine take comfort in the fact that you’ll be a more skilled embroiderer.

Hooping a t-shirt in Multi-Needle Monster

Today’s blog is inspired by a reader’s recent question.  We hope you enjoy and be sure to keep those questions coming!

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On July 21, 2014, reader Beth Price left a comment asking how to center a t-shirt with Multi-Needle Monster and PAL. Here’s how I do it.

First, prepare your hoop. Multi-Needle Monster comes with four adhesive centering rulers. Apply them to the top of the metal frame. MN1

Mark the centers of the magnetic frame on the magnet side with a permanent marker. For illustration purposes here, I’ve place four Target Stickers on the marks so you can see them clearly. Set the hoop aside. MN2

Stabilize the knit shirt with fusible polymesh cut-away stabilizer. I use the Embroiderer’s Helper for left chest placement because it provides flawless placement. Fold the t-shirt in half, matching the shoulder seams. Place the folded t-shirt on a flat surface and align the Embroiderer’s Helper’s straight edge with the fold. The notch at the top left goes right under the neckline ribbing. If there was a button on the shirt, the notch will land right under it. Slide a target sticker into the notch corresponding with the size of the t-shirt. My shirt is large so I align the target sticker with the notch marked Large. Remove the Embroiderer’s Helper. MN3

Place the shirt under PAL and turn on the beam centering the target sticker. Alignment now is not crucial; you’ll fine tune that in a few moments. MN4

Slide Multi-Needle Monster’s magnetic frame, magnets up, inside the shirt. Open the t-shirt to view the frame. Align the frame with the beam. MN5

Smooth the shirt front over the frame aligning the target sticker with the beam. MN6

Position the metal frame on one long edge of the magnetic frame holding it perpendicular to the magnetic frame. Check the alignment. The beam should hit the center mark of the metal frame. MN7Carefully release the metal frame onto the magnetic frame. Smooth the t-shirt by gently tugging on the fabric beyond the edges of the hoop. Since the t-shirt is stabilized with a fusible cut-away the fiber will not distort with the frame. Remember, it’s a flat hoop so it’s perfectly acceptable to pull on the fabric – within reason! You wouldn’t want to use brute strength, just normal handling. MN8

Attach the hoop to the machine, hem first. MN9

Inserting the free arm into the hem (instead of through the neck) insures that hoop can move freely during the embroidery process. MN10

You gotta love these multi-needle machines – they make embroidering on blanks so easy!

Multi-Needle Monday: Dynamic Duo

I have to admit when I hoop I use two devices that simplify my hooping process. I don’t have to struggle with the inner and outer rings of standard hoops or watch the outer ring scurry around my work surface while the stabilizer and fabric goes in another direction. I use a powerful duo: PAL2 and Multi-Needle Monster.

Here’s my routine: I place the Multi-Needle Monster’s magnetic frame, magnet side up, on my hooping station. My hooping station is a rubberized mat (shelf liner) taped onto a flat work surface with PAL2 centered above the mat. I have marked the center of each side of the hoop with a Sharpie and I make sure those marks are aligned with the beam.

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Then I slide stabilizer and fabric over the frame centering the target sticker under the beam.

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Next, I position Multi-Needle Monster’s metal frame perpendicular to the magnetic frame. I get the outside edge of one side aligned (metal frame still perpendicular to the magnetic frame). Then I carefully release the metal frame.

IMG_9010-2nd-Revision

It all comes together in about 30 seconds and it’s perfectly centered! Love that combo!

A Closer Look… How to become more centered

Norman felt hopelessly lost as he hiked across the expanse of fabric. He had no point of reference. No guidance or direction.

One day, he discovered a beacon of hope. It was a great beam of light shining forth across the fabric giving him direction—and guidance.

He felt very… centered.

What is the source of this great beam of light? It’s PAL 2! The Perfect Alignment Laser 2!

PAL 2 uses:

  • Quickly locate the center of quilt blocks, pockets, plackets, bags and more
  • Connect continuous embroidery designs
  • Verify design placement on large items such as jacket backs, banners, pants and more

Features:

  • Adjustable lamp head
  • Lock-in permanent position
  • Swivel tip allows for proper aiming of the laser crosshair
  • Bright, crisp Non-Gaussian lines show uniform brightness across entire length of beam
  • Reflective 6″ wide and 3″ tall shade protects laser beam
  • Adjustable clamp fits table surfaces up to 2 ¼” thick
  • 28″ arm with flexible elbow joint
  • Adjustable height
  • Weighted base post firmly slips into the adjustable clamp

Once you use PAL 2, you’ll soon discover it makes centering and continuous embroidery so easy to achieve you’ll want to dance!

 

Here’s your assignment this week:Sewing Spoolie invites you to win a Slimline box of fabulous thread along with the pre-digitized designs to make all seven of the Spoolies in Sulky’s Collection #1. These popular sewing-themed designs, from the imagination of Joyce Drexler, are as fun as they are creative. And if you’ve ever tried to keep your stabilizers organized, you’re going to love Sue Hausmann’s bonus project included with the package. The whole package is a retail value of nearly $150 including 22 – 250 yd. spools of Sulky 40 wt. Rayon Thread, a 475 yd. spool of Bobbin Thread, and a CD with the seven Spoolie designs and bonus project. If you win, it’s all yours from Sulky. Now, go Express Yourself! Leave a comment below on where you would embroider a Spoolie to be entered!blog ad
The winner of last week’s assignment answered the following question:Tell us where would you hang these adorable bird houses? One comment will be chosen to receive a one year subscription to Designs in Machine Embroidery Magazine! Click the link below to take advantage of our BEST OFFER EVER – only $19.97* per year for a one year subscription. Good luck and happy stitching!Nancy-Blog-Banner-1997

And the winner is… Kathy – “I would hang these birdhouses in my laundry room. They are so cute!”

 

 

Multi-Needle Monday: Fast & Easy Applique

Aprons are the perfect accessory – whether you’re cooking in the kitchen, tending a garden or stitching in your sewing room.  I recently purchased these oh-so-cute aprons and knew they’d be the perfect accessory to wear at our Stitching Sisters events.  As I’ll show you – you don’t need to shy away from large print fabrics.  Applique is the key!

First, find the center of the apron bib by folding the apron in half or use a target ruler. Place a target sticker on the apron to mark the center.

Apron1

Prepare the applique fabric by fusing fusible webbing to the wrong side of the applique fabric. Let the fabric cool and remove the protective paper.

Apron2

Hoop the bib with tear-away stabilizer in a 5” x 7” hoop. I used Multi-Needle Snap Hoop Monster since the flat top makes trimming applique very easy.

Apron3

Retrieve the embroidery design. On the editing screen, touch the multi-spool icon. Travel through the design and place a stop (touch the hand) at color 2 and 3. Assign the proper colors if necessary. Touch close.

If you have a camera on the multi-needle machine, use it to center the needle over the target sticker.

Apron4

Touch the camera icon again to close the camera and touch Sewing. Stitch color 1, the placement guide.

Apron5

Lay the prepared applique fabric over the outline. Stitch color 2, the tackdown.

Apron6

Touch the hoop icon at the bottom of the screen to move the hoop out for access to the applique.

Apron20

Trim the excess applique fabric close to the stitched outline. Apron7

Stitch color 3, the satin outline, color 4, the inner satin accent, the bean stitch outline and the text.

Apron8

Here’s my Stitching Sister and me at our recent event in Sacramento with Meissner’s Sewing & Vacuum. What a great event! I wonder if it was the aprons!

Apron9

Discreet is the Word – Monogramming for Men

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It’s not too late to show your dad how much you care about him. And nothing says it better than stitches. Just remember to keep the embroidery subtle. Here’s a few timely tips on stitching for men.

Materials

If there’s one word to describe monogramming on menswear, it’s discreet; discreet in size and contrast. Now don’t go by my samples – my samples are done for photography – highly contrasting so you can see them well on camera. But when stitched for someone to actually wear, a discreet monogram is the one most gentlemen will be comfortable wearing.

You have several choices when it comes to placing the monogram. Some very popular choices are on the pocket, above the pocket, or on the pocket flap if there is one, on the left cuff, inside the placket between the second and third button or on the placket at the bottom, just below the last button on the top placket and just for identification purposes: inside the collar.

ill

There are countless ways to arrange the letters but I’ve focused on three versions of the three-letter monogram. The traditional diamond shape: first name initial, last name initial and middle name initial. The two outer letters are proportionally smaller than the middle letter. Diamond

The standard order: first, middle and last initial – all the same size. Standard

On the pocket flap, go for a contemporary approach with the first initial stacked over the middle initial. This ‘tower’ of letters is equal in size to the last initial. Take this approach when the garment is a casual shirt like flannel, worn every day. Contemp

Let’s take a look at how you do it.

Pocket Flap

Find the vertical center of the flap. Place a target sticker just right of the edge of the flap. Hoop sticky stabilizer and place the hoop under the Perfect Alignment Laser. Turn on the laser and center the hoop under the laser. Position the flap on the sticky stabilizer. Smooth the flap on the stabilizer making sure the shirt is not caught under the flap.

Flap1

Support the weight of the shirt while transporting the hoop to the machine. Attach the hoop on the machine and verify the needle is centered over the target sticker. Remove the sticker and embroider the monogram.

Cuff

Button the left cuff and place it on a flat surface. Cuff2

Place the Perfect Placement Kit Cuff template on the cuff, aligning the fold with the template fold line and the topstitching line with the topstitching. Slide a target sticker under the template – use A for sizes small and medium and B for Large and extra-large.

Cuff

Unbutton the sleeve and pull the sleeve inside out. Hoop adhesive stabilizer and center the hoop under the Perfect Alignment Laser. Slide the cuff under the beam, aligning the crosshairs. Attach the hoop to the machine and embroider the monogram.

These small precise monograms take under three minutes to stitch – you could do a whole closetful in an afternoon!

 

Here’s your assignment this week:

What is your most appreciated mens embroidery project? Was it the golf club covers you made for your son-in-law, the personalized seat covers for your husband? Tell us the project that wowed and one comment will be chosen to receive a $25 gift certificate to spend on the DIME website. Thank you for reading and good luck!

Gift-Card

The winner of last week’s assignment is:

If you owned the Scrollwork Alphabet from EmbroideryOnline, where would you stitch the designs? What thread colors would you use? One comment will be randomly selected and will win a copy of Machine Embroidery in 6 Easy Lessons.

And the winners is..Susan M. “Greetings Eileen. I think the showcased monogram would look stunning on a accent pillow for any room in the house.. one or multiple initials. Thanks for sharing.”

Love that Zoom Tool

I’ve met many Baby Lock and Brother machine owners (both multi-needle or single-needle machines) who didn’t know how to get a close-up look at an embroidery design before actually stitching. The tool is accessed at the top of the editing screen on my multi-needle machine (and single-needle machine). Once I’ve aligned my designs, I like to double-check the positions of each of the elements and the best way to do that is with the hoop view.

Zoom Tool

Now the view transforms to the hoop view. Hoop Tool

But here’s my favorite tool – the magnifying glass. Magnifying Glass Tool

Once selected, the designs fill the screen. Now I can verify the position of each element before taking a stitch.Zoomed in design

What’s your favorite tool?

Multi-Needle Monday: My Go-To Gift

Nap11

Last week, I showed how to stitch multiple napkins in on a single-needle machine. Today, let’s look at how to do it on a multi-needle machine.

The set-up is the same: Mark the location of the corner monogram on each of the six napkins. I use the Napkin On-Point template from the Perfect Placement Kit – no math, no measuring. Just place the template on the napkin aligning the guides with the stitched hem and then insert a target sticker into the hole with the arrow pointing towards the body of the napkin. Repeat for all six napkins – you’ll finish this task in under two minutes.

Select the largest hoop available and hoop tear-away stabilizer. I selected the 8” x 12” standard hoop but Multi-Needle Monster would also work very well. Use one of three options for holding the napkin on the stabilizer: spray the hooped stabilizer with temporary adhesive, hoop adhesive tear-away stabilizer or use painter’s tape. I used adhesive tear-away stabilizer.

Position the first napkin in the bottom left corner of the hoop. Center the needle over the target sticker, remove the sticker and embroider the design. If your machine has a baste feature, use it! Move the design to the top left corner of the hoop. Fold the napkin out of the new sewing field and lay the second napkin in place. Smooth the napkin onto the adhesive stabilizer. Stitch the design. Nap1

Fold up both napkin tips and tape them down. Nap2

Place the third napkin below the second napkin. Smooth in place making sure the design area is not overlapped with the second napkin. Position the needle over the target sticker. Nap3

If your machine has a trace feature, use it to verify the needle will not stitch on the first napkin. Once you’re confident the first napkin is out of the sewing field, remove the sticker and embroider the design. Nap4

Fold and tape the side of the napkin and move the design just below the third napkin. Nap5

Stitch the napkin. Nap6

Tape the corners of napkins three and four. Nap7

Repeat the process for napkin five. Nap8

And napkin six. Nap9

Remove the stabilizer from the hoop and clip the basting stitches before tearing away the stabilizer. Nap10

Wow –six napkins in a flash!

My Go-To Gift

NapS1-1

If you think you don’t have time to stitch a last minute gift, think again! Let me show you how to stitch six napkins in no time.

Mark the location of the corner monogram on each of the six napkins. I use the Napkin On-Point template from the Perfect Placement Kit – no math, no measuring. Just place the template on the napkin aligning the guides with the stitched hem and then insert a target sticker into the hole with the arrow pointing towards the body of the napkin. Repeat for all six napkins – you’ll finish this task in under two minutes. Naps2-1

Select the largest hoop available and hoop tear-away stabilizer. Since I was limited to a 5” x 7” hoop for this project, I selected a small design so I could fit three napkins in one hooping. Use one of three options for holding the napkin on the stabilizer: spray the hooped stabilizer with temporary adhesive, hoop adhesive tear-away stabilizer or use painter’s tape.

To get the most of a 5” x 7” sewing field for this technique, consider placing the first design (napkin) at the far left back of the hoop, the second design in the middle on the right and the third design at the bottom of the hoop on the left. You could audition the positions in software or on the editing screen of your machine. Here’s an example. Naps7-1

Position the first napkin at the back of the hoop. Center the needle over the target sticker, remove the sticker and embroider the design. If your machine has a baste feature, use it! Naps3-1

Lift the corner of the napkin back over the body of the napkin and tape it out of harm’s way. Naps4-1

Position the second napkin below the first napkin, making sure the first napkin is not caught under the second napkin. Smooth in place. Naps5-1

Position the needle over the target sticker. If your machine has a trace feature, use it to verify the needle will not stitch on the first napkin. Once you’re confident the first napkin is out of the sewing field, remove the sticker and embroider the design. Naps6-1

Lift the corner, tape it down to keep it out of the sewing field. Naps8-1

Position the third napkin and repeat the process. Naps9-1

Bam -three napkins done in no time! Now repeat for a second hooping of three more napkins and your set of six is complete.

Here’s your assignment this week:

What is your favorite go-to gift? One comment will be chosen to receive a $25 gift certificate to spend on the DIME website. Thanks for reading and good luck!

Gift-Card

The winner of last week’s assignment is:

Tell us what your favorite children’s theme is for the Summertime goodies you are crafting. FOUR lucky comments will be chosen to receive $25 to spend at the Applique for Kids website. Thanks and good luck!

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And the winners are..Donna N. Clarice, Barb & Berenice

Multi-Needle Monday | Applique and Onesies – Oh, My!

Applique and stitching on onesies have always challenged my multi-needle machine skills. First, trimming applique in those deep standard hoops is tricky on a small item. I can’t seem to get my scissors to trim close enough to the stitch line in those hoops without nipping the base fabric. And of course, hooping a onesie when the design requires a larger than 4” x 4” hoop is almost impossible. Multi-Needle Monster Hoop solves both of those problems. Let me show you how.

Iron fusible polymesh stabilizer to the wrong side of the onesie shirt front extending the stabilizer above the neckline if your design has to stitch close to the ribbing.

Tape the embroidery design template onto the onesie. I use PAL to make sure the template is square on the garment before I tape it down. One1-1

Slide the magnetic frame (magnets side up) inside the shirt.   Place the metal Monster Hoop frame on top, aligning the frames. One2

Lift the frame and pull the back of the onesie over the frame. The metal arms of the frame will hold the onesie in place. One3

Check the back of the hoop to make sure nothing is caught under the hoop. Attach the hoop to the machine, center the design on the template’s crosshair and begin to stitch the applique. One4

After tacking down the applique fabric, remove the hoop and place it on a flat surface while trimming. Hold the hoop by the metal arms, not the frames, while transporting the hoop. One5

Reattach the hoop to the machine and slide your hand under the design area to make sure nothing is caught under the hoop. One6

There you have it! Never been easier. One7

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