Archive of ‘Hooping’ category

Multi-Needle Monday: Automatic Appliqué on the Brother Entrepreneur and Baby Lock Enterprise

As owners of the Baby Lock Enterprise and Brother Entrepreneur, we are so fortunate to have the latest and greatest technology at their finger tips. We have the scanner and live camera along with automatic basting file (shown in an earlier blog for embroidering t-shirts) and another helpful, quick technique the automatic appliqué feature. The automatic appliqué can create any shape, text or embroidery design into an appliqué without using embroidery software. There is an icon on the screen to convert each design into an appliqué.

I created a simple three-letter monogram inside a diamond shape design right at the embroidery screen; no embroidery software needed. The steps below will guide you how to create your own appliqué once a design, text or shape is shown on the screen.

Step 1. Select the shapes icon under Exclusives and choose the diamond shape.

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Resize the diamond shape to approximately 4″ wide or the size you wish to embroider and select Edit End. diamond mono3

Step 2. Click the blue shield icon; this will add the automatic appliqué around the diamond shape.

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Step 3.Use the select key and highlight the black diamond shape as shown in photo (the original shape) and delete it.

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Go to “Add”. Choose the monogram icon.

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Step 4. Select the letters for the monogram; left, middle and right letters to fit properly inside the shape.

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Resize the letters to fit inside the satin stitches.

Step 5. Hoop the fabric and stitch the placement color (1st color). Add the fabric on top of placement color. diamond mono13diamond mono14diamond mono15 Remove hoop from machine and trim excess fabric from around diamond shape.

Step 6. Replace the hoop on the machine and stitch the satin stitch and monogram. diamond mono16

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Instant applique! Right at your fingertips!

 

Learn more helpful machine embroidery business information by taking my Craftsy class : How to Start an Embroidery Business by Marie Zinno.

Click the link to save $10 on this class.

https://www.craftsy.com/ext/MarieZinno_4963_D

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Multi-Needle Monday – Tackling Hard to Hoop Items

My favorite solution for hard-to-hoop items is Quick Snap Frames. There are many uses for the Quick Snap Hooping System such as stitching backpacks and small cosmetic cases. The Quick Snap System comes with a variety of metal base frames that are inserted into a bracket attached in the center back of the embroidery machine.

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The top clear frames are held in place with super strong magnets that slide into the grooves. Seven metal frames and 15 coordinating top frames are included with Quick Snap.

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Sometimes a particular accessory has many obstacles such as zippers, rivets, tiny inside pockets of bags and thick bulky seams. If the clear top acrylic frames do not lay properly or easily because of bulky seams, my solution is to use only the magnets.

Here’s how I use them. Measure the design, measure the opening of the accessory and select the correct size Quick Snap metal base frame. Attach the metal base frame to the machine and use the trace feature to make sure the design is centered and fits in the selected frame.

Mark your item to be embroidered with a target sticker and place a piece of stabilizer on top of the metal frame. Slide the item onto the frame, centering the target sticker under the needle. Add the magnets.

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The magnets will hold the item on the metal frame during the stitching process. This technique made easy work of monogramming nine cosmetic cases for wedding attendant gifts.

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Follow the same instructions for embroidery a larger item such as a backpack. The monogram for the backpack measures 5” tall and the zipper area was a bit restrictive for the top clear frame. So I measured and centered the design before the pocket of the backpack was inserted on the frame.

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The magnets easily held the bulky (and expensive) backpack on the hoop. Of course this was for my 17 year old daughter and she wanted metallic thread! It turned out great, just as she envisioned.

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Multi-Needle Monday: Embroidering on T-shirts

Embroidering t-shirts are so simple on a multi-needle machine. Through my five years teaching on the road with my Stitching Sister we have discovered many interesting scenarios regarding hooping t-shirts. Single needle embroidery machine owners have to be creative when they hoop and embroider a t-shirt. We teach some out of the ordinary techniques such as using tape, clips, Hoop Guards, spray adhesive and pins. Some people use all of the items listed! If you are fortunate enough to own a multi-needle embroidery machine, hooping and embroidering a t-shirt is very simple.

Step1. Select the embroidery design and decide on the appropriate size hoop. T-shirts should not be embroidered on a hoop larger than a 5” x 7” for optimal quality. For example: stitching jumbo letters or multiple lines of text on a stretchy knit fabric is not ideal. Make your job a bit easier and re-size the design to fit in a 5” x 7” or 4” x 4” hoop.

Step 2. Stabilizer rule: If it stretches, cut it out. It’s that simple. Stabilize the wrong side of the t-shirt in the area to be embroidered with a fusible no-show or poly-mesh cut away stabilizer. Cut the stabilizer larger than the hoop you plan to use. For a 4” x 4” hoop, cut a 8”  square of fusible stabilizer. (Poly mesh and no-show are interchangeable terms.) Poly mesh stabilizer is available in fusible and non-fusible in white, natural or black colors.

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Step3. Do not over stretch the fabric when placing it in the hoop. Once the fusible poly mesh is ironed in place, carefully hoop the fabric taut without over stretching. Mark the area to be embroidered with a target sticker; cross hair centered in the hoop. The fabric should be tight like a drum, without ripples. Feel underneath the hoop to make sure excess fabric is not caught in the hoop. Remove the target sticker after it is aligned with the needle bar.hoop1

Step4. DO NOT FLOAT! (To float fabric is to hoop stabilizer and spray adhesive to the stabilizer, then add the garment or fabric on top of the hoop. The fabric is not actually contained in the hoop.) I hear so many embroiderers talk about floating the garment or fabric and floating the fabric does not create any tension on the fabric.

Embroidery machine manufacturers make hoops because it is the best way to stabilize the fabric. Yes, there are many instances when you might need a specialty hoop and we are glad to have them. On a daily basis, hoop properly and your embroidery will look professional.

Step 5. Use water soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric to keep the thread from sinking into the knit fabric. Hold the stabilizer in place with the basting file.hoop2

Step 6. Use the free-arm ability to easily embroider tubular items such as t-shirts, sweat shirts and onesies. Insert the neckline over the machine throat and let the body of the shirt hang below the throat. Get creative if the design is more vertical, you can use the sleeve to fit around the hoop’s extended attachment.

Want to learn more about stitching professionally? Take advantage of this $10 coupon for my Craftsy class, How to Start a Machine Embroidery Business.

 

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Hooping a t-shirt in Multi-Needle Monster

Today’s blog is inspired by a reader’s recent question.  We hope you enjoy and be sure to keep those questions coming!

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On July 21, 2014, reader Beth Price left a comment asking how to center a t-shirt with Multi-Needle Monster and PAL. Here’s how I do it.

First, prepare your hoop. Multi-Needle Monster comes with four adhesive centering rulers. Apply them to the top of the metal frame. MN1

Mark the centers of the magnetic frame on the magnet side with a permanent marker. For illustration purposes here, I’ve place four Target Stickers on the marks so you can see them clearly. Set the hoop aside. MN2

Stabilize the knit shirt with fusible polymesh cut-away stabilizer. I use the Embroiderer’s Helper for left chest placement because it provides flawless placement. Fold the t-shirt in half, matching the shoulder seams. Place the folded t-shirt on a flat surface and align the Embroiderer’s Helper’s straight edge with the fold. The notch at the top left goes right under the neckline ribbing. If there was a button on the shirt, the notch will land right under it. Slide a target sticker into the notch corresponding with the size of the t-shirt. My shirt is large so I align the target sticker with the notch marked Large. Remove the Embroiderer’s Helper. MN3

Place the shirt under PAL and turn on the beam centering the target sticker. Alignment now is not crucial; you’ll fine tune that in a few moments. MN4

Slide Multi-Needle Monster’s magnetic frame, magnets up, inside the shirt. Open the t-shirt to view the frame. Align the frame with the beam. MN5

Smooth the shirt front over the frame aligning the target sticker with the beam. MN6

Position the metal frame on one long edge of the magnetic frame holding it perpendicular to the magnetic frame. Check the alignment. The beam should hit the center mark of the metal frame. MN7Carefully release the metal frame onto the magnetic frame. Smooth the t-shirt by gently tugging on the fabric beyond the edges of the hoop. Since the t-shirt is stabilized with a fusible cut-away the fiber will not distort with the frame. Remember, it’s a flat hoop so it’s perfectly acceptable to pull on the fabric – within reason! You wouldn’t want to use brute strength, just normal handling. MN8

Attach the hoop to the machine, hem first. MN9

Inserting the free arm into the hem (instead of through the neck) insures that hoop can move freely during the embroidery process. MN10

You gotta love these multi-needle machines – they make embroidering on blanks so easy!

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Multi-Needle Monday: Dynamic Duo

I have to admit when I hoop I use two devices that simplify my hooping process. I don’t have to struggle with the inner and outer rings of standard hoops or watch the outer ring scurry around my work surface while the stabilizer and fabric goes in another direction. I use a powerful duo: PAL2 and Multi-Needle Monster.

Here’s my routine: I place the Multi-Needle Monster’s magnetic frame, magnet side up, on my hooping station. My hooping station is a rubberized mat (shelf liner) taped onto a flat work surface with PAL2 centered above the mat. I have marked the center of each side of the hoop with a Sharpie and I make sure those marks are aligned with the beam.

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Then I slide stabilizer and fabric over the frame centering the target sticker under the beam.

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Next, I position Multi-Needle Monster’s metal frame perpendicular to the magnetic frame. I get the outside edge of one side aligned (metal frame still perpendicular to the magnetic frame). Then I carefully release the metal frame.

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It all comes together in about 30 seconds and it’s perfectly centered! Love that combo!

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Multi-Needle Monday: Fast & Easy Applique

Aprons are the perfect accessory – whether you’re cooking in the kitchen, tending a garden or stitching in your sewing room.  I recently purchased these oh-so-cute aprons and knew they’d be the perfect accessory to wear at our Stitching Sisters events.  As I’ll show you – you don’t need to shy away from large print fabrics.  Applique is the key!

First, find the center of the apron bib by folding the apron in half or use a target ruler. Place a target sticker on the apron to mark the center.

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Prepare the applique fabric by fusing fusible webbing to the wrong side of the applique fabric. Let the fabric cool and remove the protective paper.

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Hoop the bib with tear-away stabilizer in a 5” x 7” hoop. I used Multi-Needle Snap Hoop Monster since the flat top makes trimming applique very easy.

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Retrieve the embroidery design. On the editing screen, touch the multi-spool icon. Travel through the design and place a stop (touch the hand) at color 2 and 3. Assign the proper colors if necessary. Touch close.

If you have a camera on the multi-needle machine, use it to center the needle over the target sticker.

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Touch the camera icon again to close the camera and touch Sewing. Stitch color 1, the placement guide.

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Lay the prepared applique fabric over the outline. Stitch color 2, the tackdown.

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Touch the hoop icon at the bottom of the screen to move the hoop out for access to the applique.

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Trim the excess applique fabric close to the stitched outline. Apron7

Stitch color 3, the satin outline, color 4, the inner satin accent, the bean stitch outline and the text.

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Here’s my Stitching Sister and me at our recent event in Sacramento with Meissner’s Sewing & Vacuum. What a great event! I wonder if it was the aprons!

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Multi-Needle Monday: My Go-To Gift

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Last week, I showed how to stitch multiple napkins in on a single-needle machine. Today, let’s look at how to do it on a multi-needle machine.

The set-up is the same: Mark the location of the corner monogram on each of the six napkins. I use the Napkin On-Point template from the Perfect Placement Kit – no math, no measuring. Just place the template on the napkin aligning the guides with the stitched hem and then insert a target sticker into the hole with the arrow pointing towards the body of the napkin. Repeat for all six napkins – you’ll finish this task in under two minutes.

Select the largest hoop available and hoop tear-away stabilizer. I selected the 8” x 12” standard hoop but Multi-Needle Monster would also work very well. Use one of three options for holding the napkin on the stabilizer: spray the hooped stabilizer with temporary adhesive, hoop adhesive tear-away stabilizer or use painter’s tape. I used adhesive tear-away stabilizer.

Position the first napkin in the bottom left corner of the hoop. Center the needle over the target sticker, remove the sticker and embroider the design. If your machine has a baste feature, use it! Move the design to the top left corner of the hoop. Fold the napkin out of the new sewing field and lay the second napkin in place. Smooth the napkin onto the adhesive stabilizer. Stitch the design. Nap1

Fold up both napkin tips and tape them down. Nap2

Place the third napkin below the second napkin. Smooth in place making sure the design area is not overlapped with the second napkin. Position the needle over the target sticker. Nap3

If your machine has a trace feature, use it to verify the needle will not stitch on the first napkin. Once you’re confident the first napkin is out of the sewing field, remove the sticker and embroider the design. Nap4

Fold and tape the side of the napkin and move the design just below the third napkin. Nap5

Stitch the napkin. Nap6

Tape the corners of napkins three and four. Nap7

Repeat the process for napkin five. Nap8

And napkin six. Nap9

Remove the stabilizer from the hoop and clip the basting stitches before tearing away the stabilizer. Nap10

Wow –six napkins in a flash!

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My Go-To Gift

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If you think you don’t have time to stitch a last minute gift, think again! Let me show you how to stitch six napkins in no time.

Mark the location of the corner monogram on each of the six napkins. I use the Napkin On-Point template from the Perfect Placement Kit – no math, no measuring. Just place the template on the napkin aligning the guides with the stitched hem and then insert a target sticker into the hole with the arrow pointing towards the body of the napkin. Repeat for all six napkins – you’ll finish this task in under two minutes. Naps2-1

Select the largest hoop available and hoop tear-away stabilizer. Since I was limited to a 5” x 7” hoop for this project, I selected a small design so I could fit three napkins in one hooping. Use one of three options for holding the napkin on the stabilizer: spray the hooped stabilizer with temporary adhesive, hoop adhesive tear-away stabilizer or use painter’s tape.

To get the most of a 5” x 7” sewing field for this technique, consider placing the first design (napkin) at the far left back of the hoop, the second design in the middle on the right and the third design at the bottom of the hoop on the left. You could audition the positions in software or on the editing screen of your machine. Here’s an example. Naps7-1

Position the first napkin at the back of the hoop. Center the needle over the target sticker, remove the sticker and embroider the design. If your machine has a baste feature, use it! Naps3-1

Lift the corner of the napkin back over the body of the napkin and tape it out of harm’s way. Naps4-1

Position the second napkin below the first napkin, making sure the first napkin is not caught under the second napkin. Smooth in place. Naps5-1

Position the needle over the target sticker. If your machine has a trace feature, use it to verify the needle will not stitch on the first napkin. Once you’re confident the first napkin is out of the sewing field, remove the sticker and embroider the design. Naps6-1

Lift the corner, tape it down to keep it out of the sewing field. Naps8-1

Position the third napkin and repeat the process. Naps9-1

Bam -three napkins done in no time! Now repeat for a second hooping of three more napkins and your set of six is complete.

Here’s your assignment this week:

What is your favorite go-to gift? One comment will be chosen to receive a $25 gift certificate to spend on the DIME website. Thanks for reading and good luck!

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The winner of last week’s assignment is:

Tell us what your favorite children’s theme is for the Summertime goodies you are crafting. FOUR lucky comments will be chosen to receive $25 to spend at the Applique for Kids website. Thanks and good luck!

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And the winners are..Donna N. Clarice, Barb & Berenice


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Multi-Needle Monday | Applique and Onesies – Oh, My!

Applique and stitching on onesies have always challenged my multi-needle machine skills. First, trimming applique in those deep standard hoops is tricky on a small item. I can’t seem to get my scissors to trim close enough to the stitch line in those hoops without nipping the base fabric. And of course, hooping a onesie when the design requires a larger than 4” x 4” hoop is almost impossible. Multi-Needle Monster Hoop solves both of those problems. Let me show you how.

Iron fusible polymesh stabilizer to the wrong side of the onesie shirt front extending the stabilizer above the neckline if your design has to stitch close to the ribbing.

Tape the embroidery design template onto the onesie. I use PAL to make sure the template is square on the garment before I tape it down. One1-1

Slide the magnetic frame (magnets side up) inside the shirt.   Place the metal Monster Hoop frame on top, aligning the frames. One2

Lift the frame and pull the back of the onesie over the frame. The metal arms of the frame will hold the onesie in place. One3

Check the back of the hoop to make sure nothing is caught under the hoop. Attach the hoop to the machine, center the design on the template’s crosshair and begin to stitch the applique. One4

After tacking down the applique fabric, remove the hoop and place it on a flat surface while trimming. Hold the hoop by the metal arms, not the frames, while transporting the hoop. One5

Reattach the hoop to the machine and slide your hand under the design area to make sure nothing is caught under the hoop. One6

There you have it! Never been easier. One7

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7 days FREE at It’s Sew Easy

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I’m always so excited to head to the It’s Sew Easy studio to tape new embroidery projects.  It’s a whirlwind of activity and usually involves a snowstorm or two.  Taping occurs in northern Ohio in February and although the natives think nothing of 3, 6 or 10 inches of snow, the guests have completely different thoughts.  And no matter how many times you check the weather on your laptop, ipad or phone app, there’s bound to be snow on the ground when you land with more scheduled to arrive before your early morning wake-up call.

I learned so much about preparing for weather when I taped my first appearance on It’s Sew Easy in 2011. Maybe you remember how I moaned about that experience in a previous post:

The car rental agent informed me that the Cleveland area was getting 8” of snow that night. Really?  How could that be?  I checked the weather and packed a coat but no boots, no hat, no scarf.  I had on– oh absolutely a southern rookie mistake here – clogs!  Clogs?  For heaven’s sake, I could hear my mother now, “You might as well be barefoot!”

Smart girl that I am, I trudged to the nearest mall and bought boots.  Now I really felt prepared for the morning.  Ha! What I should have done was head to Home Depot and got a shovel. Have you ever stayed at a hotel with a rental car in a snowstorm?  And absolutely had to be somewhere at 7:30 in the morning? Pretty darn hard to dig your car out with a credit card and a measly rental car-supplied brush that resembles a chop stick.

It was no different when I taped episode 603. Although this time I came prepared! I stayed at my sister’s house!  Marie had the right car, tires and more outerwear than I would ever need.  She picked me up at the airport, stayed at the hotel and then dropped me at the airport after it was all said and done.  Not only did Marie hang with me – she also taped her first segments on It’s Sew Easy! She helped me deal with the weather and I helped her deal with the pressure of taping a television segment.  MZ

Even though we weren’t on air together, we got to tape on the same day. We helped each other tag, bag and organize all of our step-outs in perfect sequence.  We are a great support team – we always have each other’s back whether we’re taping a television segment, writing a book or teaching a seminar. I couldn’t do half of what I do without Marie!  MZ_ER

Join me at http://www.itsseweasytv.com this week to view episode 603, FREE for 7 days. In my segment, you’ll learn how to work with templates and a dress pattern to make an embroidered tunic.  I’ve highlighted easy steps for a professional finish that complements your best feature – your smile!  You’ll learn how to cut out the pattern, create the embroidery layout, cut the fabric and how to hoop and embroider the fabric while it’s still flat.

Marie’s appearance occurs in another segment of season 6.  Stay tuned for her showing – I’ll post it here.

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