Archive of ‘In-the-hoop’ category

Block of the Month: Block 3 – Four Triangles – Sewing Instruction

My Block Piecer
Block of the Month : Block 3 Four Triangles
Sewing Instructions

Block 3 is our first two-unit block in the My Block Piecer Sampler Block of the Month. My Block Piecer splits some blocks into smaller units when a patch shares seam allowances with more than one patch. The 4-Triangle block consists of four half-square triangles. We’ll piece two units of two half-square triangles in the hoop. Then the units will be removed from the hoop and sewn together on the sewing machine with ¼” seam allowance.

Hoop tear-away stabilizer and stitch color 1, the placement guide of Unit 1.

Place patch 1 fabric, right side up, in patch 1. Stitch color 2, the tackdown.

Place patch 2 fabric, right side down, over patch 1, align the raw edges. Stitch color 3, the seam.

Flip patch 2 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color 4, the tackdown of patch 2.

Stitch color 5, the placement guide of Unit 2.

Place patch 3 fabric, right side up, over patch 3. Stitch color 6, the tackdown.

Place patch 4 fabric, right side down, over patch 3, align the raw edges. Stitch color 7, the seam.

Flip patch 4 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color 8, the tackdown of patch 4.

Remove the block from the machine and hoop. Trim the block on the outside stitch line.

Cut the stabilizer, separating the two units. Examine the block and make sure you cut the units between the raw edges, not the sewn seam.

Align the center seams of the two units and insert a pin horizontally into the ditch of the seam to keep it aligned.

For additional security, pin the units together.

Sew with ¼” seam allowance on the sewing machine.

You could opt to stitch the two units together in the hoop by loading the second design, Blk3Triangle_002.

If making the larger quilt, make three more blocks and set them aside.

It’s fun to play with different layouts but it might be wise to wait until all blocks are made to finalize the layouts.

Created by Nancy Stansbury

 

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Block of the Month: Block 3 – Four Triangles – Software Instruction

My Block Piecer
Block of the Month : Block 3 Four Triangles
Software Instructions
By Nancy Stansbury


We hope you are enjoying this Block of the Month series.  As a reminder, the first Saturday of every month will feature the software lesson using My Block Piecer.  The following Wednesday will feature the sewing lesson.

  • You are free to adapt the block to a size of your preference.
  • A free trial of My Block Piecer is available if you’d like to try it before you buy it.  Note the “Save” feature is deactivated until the software is purchased.
  • Interested in learning more about My Block Piecer and other Inspirations Software?  Join us at an Inspirations Event.  Click the Events link for events near you.
  • If you’re late to the Block of the Month “party” have no fear!  Start with Block 3 or spend a little time catching up.

Let’s continue the journey of learning and creativity!


Block 3 is our first two-unit block in the My Block Piecer Sampler Block of the Month. My Block Piecer splits some blocks into smaller units when a patch shares seam allowances with more than one patch. The 4-Triangle block consists of four half-square triangles. We’ll piece two units of two half-square triangles in the hoop. Then the units will be removed from the hoop and sewn together on the sewing machine with ¼” seam allowance. Let’s get started on Block 3.

  1. Open MBP.
  2. Click on Create a New Design.
  3. If the units for the ruler on the design page show mm, Right Click on either one of the rulers on the Design Page, and Click on Inches.
  4. Right Click on either ruler again and click on Grid Settings.
    1. Check marks by:
      1. Maintain aspect ratio
      2. Snap to grid.
    2. Set horizontal spacing to 0.25.
  5. Click on the Block icon.
    1. Enter 4 Triangles in the Find box at the bottom of the window. (DO NOT CLICK THE ENTER KEY).
    2. Click on the Down green arrow.
    3. Click OK to place the block on the design page.
  6. In the Properties Window on the right side of the screen, Click on the Transform icon.

    1. Have Maintain aspect ratio checked.
    2. Change the Width to 6.
    3. Click Apply.
  7. Click on the Select icon and holding down the CTRL key, select all of the patches.
  8. Click on the Workflow icon.

    1. Select a 200mm x 200 mm hoop or similar for your machine.
    2. Click the Auto Build button. Notice the block has been split into two units.
      Click Sort numbers. Select Yes in the message box.
    3. The numbers have been sorted according to the order they will be added to the block.
    4. Click Preview. The patch is split into two units. Both units will be created in one hooping. The second hooping (if you choice to use the hoop) will piece the two units together. Click Preview again.

      1. Click Save. Name the new folder Blk3Triangle and save it the format appropriate for your machine.
      2. A window will open showing you the files that are created.
        1. Blk3Triangles_001.pes (First Hooping).
        2. Block3Triangles_002.pes (Second Hooping)
        3. Blk3Triangle_artwork.c2s. (original block)
        4. 4_Triangles_preview.pdf. (stitching instructions)
      3. Close the file window.
    5. Close the Save window.
  9. Click the Cutter icon.

    1. Seam allowance default is .25”. Normally I change this to 0.4” or 0.5”, to make it easier to place the fabric pieces no matter which output format I choose.
    2. How you are going create the fabric pieces for the block, will determine which file format (hoop) to choose for the templates.
      1. If printing templates to manually cut the fabric pieces, select the Paper Letter 210×279.
      2. If using the Scan and Cut, select Brother SCN 12x12” or 12 x24”.
      3. If using the Silhouette, select Silhouette 12x12” or 12x24”.
    3. Can Unclick Optimize Orientation if using a directional fabric (This will optimize how the pieces file on the paper).
    4. If making four blocks for the large quilt, change 1 to 4 in the Repeat field.
    5. Click Apply.
    6. Click Save.
      1. In File name enter Blk3TriangleCut.
      2. Save the file in the format appropriate for your digital cutter.
      3. The Following Files are created for the Brother Scan n Cut.

        1. Blk3TriangleCut_001_1_1. (First Fabric)
        2. Blk3TriangleCut_002_2_1 (Second Fabric)
        3. Blk3TriangleCut_preview.pdf.
      4. Close the files window.
      5. Close the Cutter window.
  10. Print the templates, or prepare your fabric and send the templates to your cutter.
  11. Load the design in your machine and have fun making this block.

 

 

 

Block of the Month: Block 2 – Nested Triangles – Sewing Instruction

Block of the Month : Block 2 Nested Triangles
Sewing Instructions

If you missed the software lesson for Block 2, click here.


 

Hoop lightweight tear-away stabilizer or polymesh cut-away. Stitch color 1, the block diagram.

Place the patch 1 fabric, right side up, over patch 1. Stitch color 2, the tackdown.

Place the patch 2 fabric, right side down, over the seam of patches 1 and 2, aligning the seam allowances. Stitch color 3, the seam.

Flip patch 2 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color 4, the tackdown of patch 2.

Place the patch 3 fabric, right side down, over the seam of patches 2 and 3, aligning the seam allowances. Stitch color 5, the seam.

Flip patch 3 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color 6, the tackdown of patch 3.

Place the patch 4 fabric, right side down, over the seam of patches 1 and 3, aligning the seam allowances. Stitch color 7, the seam.

Flip patch 4 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color 8, the tackdown of patch 4.

Place the patch 5 fabric, right side down, over the seam of patches 2 and 5, aligning the seam allowances. Stitch color 9, the seam.

Flip patch 5 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color 10, the tackdown of patch 5.

Remove the hoop from the machine and the fabric from the hoop. Place the edge quilter’s ruler on the outside stitch line of the block. Trim the block on all sides. If you used tear-away stabilizer, remove it from the behind the patches. If a cut-away was used it will remain in the block.

If making the larger quilt, make four blocks of Nested Triangles. Piece the blocks with ¼” seam allowance or wait until all of your blocks are complete for the final assembly.

Variations on Block 2

Created by Nancy Stansbury

 

 

Block of the Month: Block 2 – Nested Triangles – Software Instruction

My Block Piecer Block of the Month: Block 2 Nested Triangles
Software Instructions
By Nancy Stansbury

We hope you are enjoying this Block of the Month series.  As a reminder, the first Saturday of every month will feature the software lesson using My Block Piecer.  The following Wednesday will feature the sewing lesson.

  • You are free to adapt the block to a size of your preference.
  • A free trial of My Block Piecer is available if you’d like to try it before you buy it.  Note the “Save” feature is deactivated until the software is purchased.
  • Interested in learning more about My Block Piecer and other Inspirations Software?  Join us at an Inspirations Event.  Click the Events link for events near you.

Let’s begin!


  1. Open MBP.
  2. Click on Create a New Design
  3. If the units for the ruler on the design page show mm, Right Click on either one of the rulers on the Design Page, and Click on Inches.
  4. Right Click on either ruler again and click on Grid Settings.
    1. Check marks by:
      1. Maintain aspect ratio
      2. Snap to grid.
    2. Set Horizontal spacing to 0.25.
    3. Click OK.
  5. Click on the Block icon.
    1. Enter Nested Triangles in the Find box at the bottom of the window (DO NOT CLICK THE ENTER KEY).
    2. Click on the Down green arrow.
    3. Click OK to place the block on the design page.
  6. In the Properties Window on the right side of the screen click on the Transform icon. noimage

    1. Have Maintain aspect ratio checked.
    2. Change the Width to 6.
    3. Click Apply.
  7. Click on the Select icon and draw a box around the block or Click CTRL-A.
  8. Click on the Workflow icon.

    1. Select a 200mm x 200 mm hoop or similar for your machine.
    2. Click the Auto Build button
  9. Click Sort Numbers. Select Yes in the message box.

    1. The numbers have been sorted to the order you will add them to the block.
  10. Click Preview. I’ve filled in patch 1 with green for easy detection. On your file, look for the green outline. Click Save, located under Preview.

    1. Click on Create a New Folder icon and name it Blk2Sew.
    2. Double Click on the folder to open it.
    3. In the File name box enter Blk2Sew.
    4. Click on the drop down menu next to Save and select the format for your machine.
    5. Click Save.
    6. A window will open showing you the files that have been created.

      1. Blk2Sew_001.pes.(stitch file for your machine)
      2. Blk2Sew _artwork.c2s. (original block)
      3. Blk2Sew _preview.pdf. (sewing instructions)
    7. Close the file window.
    8. Close the Save window.
  11. Click the Cutter icon.

    1. Seam allowance default is .25”. Normally I change this to 0.4” or 0.5”, to make it easier to place the fabric pieces no matter which cutting format I choose.
    2. How you are going to cut the fabric pieces for the block will determine which file format (hoop) to choose for the templates.
      1. If printing templates to manually cut the fabric pieces, select the Paper Letter 210×279.
      2. If using the Scan and Cut, select Brother SCN 12x12” or 12x24”.
      3. If using the Silhouette, select Silhouette 12x12”.
    3. Can Unclick Optimize Orientation if using a directional fabric (This will optimize how the pieces file on the paper.
    4. If making the large quilt, change 1 to 4 in the Repeats field.
    5. Click Apply. Click Save.
    6. In the File name, enter Blk2Templates (or something similar) and select the appropriate format from the drop down menu.
  12. The software will create files for your digital cutter or PDF patterns for printing on paper.
  13. Print the templates or prepare your fabric and send the digital cutting files to your cutter.
  14. Next lesson: stitching!

My Favorite Tip for Piecing in the Hoop

Piecing blocks in the hoop is fun, easy and accurate. The first color of a piece in the hoop quilt block is a numbered outline. The outline tells you where to place the individual fabric patches and frankly, I’d be lost without it.
I learned early on to use a thread color that blends with the fabrics to avoid thread bleed-through. The outline above was stitched in black so you can see it more clearly.

I’ve tried two different stabilizers for this process. The first was fusible poly mesh, a permanent addition to the blocks. Then I tried Piece & Stitch, tear away wash away stabilizer. I liked the idea of removing it after piecing but I noticed the stitched numbered outline hindered the removal of the stabilizer. I couldn’t quite remove all of it from the seam allowance areas. Ugh.

Then a light went off – what if I stitched the outline without thread? I removed the thread from the needle and turned off the thread sensor on my machine. Then I stitched the outline sans thread. I could see the numbers and the outline and it was easy to add the fabrics in the proper order.
Now, removing the Piece & Stitch stabilizer was easy. Those small remaining fibers will dissolve once the finished quilt is laundered.

Now all my blocks are flat and the seams are crisp. Love that!

Block of the Month: Block 1 Peony – Sewing Instruction

My Block Piecer Sampler Quilt
Block of the Month : Block 1 Peony
Sewing Instructions

Tips to Keep in Mind

The first color of any My Block Piecer block is the block diagram. The diagram includes the numbers on the patches, the patches outlines and seam allowances. It’s helpful to stitch the diagram in a thread that you can see – something other than white (assuming your stabilizer is white). However, if your fabric is light-colored, the stitches could be visible through the fabric. Our photography shows the diagram in a contrasting color so you can see it clearly for instruction purposes. For this block, we used black and jewel tone fabrics so there is no worry about thread bleed-through.

A modern approach to the Block of Month Sampler includes pastel batiks and whites. A light-colored thread was selected for the diagram. It’s still visible to the user but won’t bleed through the fabrics.

We used a lightweight tear-away stabilizer that practically dissolves when washed so we won’t remove it after making the block. It’s up to you whether you want to take the time to remove the tear-away or leave it in the block. If you used a lightweight cut-away, such as poly mesh, you would not remove it.

In the software lesson for Block 1, you’ll remember that I cut my fabrics slightly larger than the standard ¼” seam allowance. That’s not mandatory but it is helpful.

The patches in the images below were cut with ¼” seam allowances. You can see how easy it is to misaligned the fabrics when working with a narrow seam allowance. In the first image, I ripped out the stitches and realigned the patch.

In the second image, I left the patch intact.

Let’s get started.

Hoop lightweight tear-away stabilizer or polymesh cut-away. Stitch color 1, the block diagram.

Place the patch 1 fabric, right side up, over patch 1. Stitch color 2, the tackdown.

Place the patch 2 fabric, right side down, over the seam of patches 1 and 2, aligning the seam allowances. Stitch color 3, the seam.

Flip patch 2 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color 4, the tackdown of patch 2.

Place the patch 3 fabric, right side down, over the seam of patches 2 and 3, aligning the seam allowances. Stitch color 5, the seam.

Flip patch 3 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color 6, the tackdown of patch 3.

Place the patch 4 fabric, right side down, over the seam of patches 3 and 4, aligning the seam allowances. Stitch color 7, the seam.

Flip patch 4 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color 8, the tackdown of patch 4.

Place the patch 5 fabric, right side down, over the seam of patches 4 and 5, aligning the seam allowances. Stitch color 9, the seam.

Flip patch 5 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color 10, the tackdown of patch 5.

Place the patch 6 fabric, right side down, over the seam of patches 1, 2, 4 and 5, aligning the seam allowances. Stitch color 11, the seam.

Flip patch 6 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color 12, the tackdown of patch 6.

Remove the hoop from the machine and the fabric from the hoop. Place the ¼” mark of a quilter’s ruler on the outside stitch line of the block. Trim the block on all sides. If you used a tear-away stabilizer and want to remove it, do it now. If a cut-away was used, it will remain in the block.

If making the larger quilt, make four blocks of Peony #2. Piece the blocks with ¼” seam allowance or wait until all of your blocks are complete for the final assembly.

Variations of Block 1 Assembly for Large Quilt

     

     

 

 

 

My Block Piecer Sampler Quilt Block of the Month

What’s the key to learning and improving your embroidery skills?  Practice!  The My Block Piecer Sampler Quilt block of the month will help you do just that!  Learn the ins and outs to creating in-the-hoop quilt blocks with My Block Piecer, one of today’s hottest techniques. You’ll get familiar with one-unit blocks, advance to two- unit block and three-unit blocks. You’ll learn how to create in-the-hoop blocks from the block library and original artwork files. Plus you’ll create borders – perfectly proportioned without the math!

Don’t have the software?  You can download a free trial by clicking here.  You’ll enjoy a fully-functioning software with only the “Save Function” disabled.  Once you’re ready to purchase the software, visit an Inspirations Dealer to make the purchase. After you purchase, you can duplicate the quilt shown here over the next 12 months.

This block of the month series will feature two lessons every month:

Software Lesson:  First Saturday of the Month
Sewing Lesson:  To be published the following Wednesday

This block of the month sampler quilt has unlimited potential: scrappy, monochromatic, jewel tone, batiks, or ultra-modern quilt.

All blocks are a 6” finished square and the border blocks are 3” x 6” finished.  You can make one of each block or make four for a larger quilt.

Quilt Dimensions

  • Finished size: 24” x 30”
  • We opted to piece our quilt without sashing. If you plan on adding 1” wide finished sashing, you’ll need 1/3 yd. of fabric for the sashing.
  • Fabric requirements:

This is a great opportunity to use scraps or select your own palette. You could go for a bright sunny look as shown above or opt for medium and dark jewel tones.  The image below shows a 42″ x 54″ version. In this version, you’ll make four repeats of each block.  If you opt for the larger quilt, double the yardage of each fabric.

Of course, you can never go wrong with an array of blues.

Yardage calculations are based on ¼” seam allowances. We have slightly increased the amounts for each fabric to allow some wiggle room for cutting and seam allowance.

Special thanks to Nancy Stansbury for this Block of the Month Series.


My Block Piecer Sampler Quilt
Block of the Month: Block 1 Peony
Software Instructions

  1. Open MBP.
  2. Click on Create a New Design.
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  3. If the units for the ruler on the design page show mm, Right Click on either one of the rulers on the Design Page, and Click on Inches.
  4. Right Click on either ruler again and click on Grid Settings.
    1. Check marks by:
      1. Maintain aspect ratio
      2. Snap to grid.
    2. Set horizontal spacing to 0.25.
  5. Click OK.
  6. Click on the Block icon. noimage
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  1. Enter Peony #2 in the Find box at the bottom of the window (DO NOT CLICK THE ENTER KEY). You’ll find Peony #2 under Foundation Blocks, Foundation Flowers. Remember to include the # sign as there are several Peony blocks in the Block Library.
  2. Click on the Down green arrow, next to the Find box.
  3. Click OK to place the block on the design page.noimage
  • In the Properties Window on the right side of the screen, click on the Transform icon. noimage
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    1. Have Maintain aspect ratio checked.
    2. Change the Width to 6.
    3. Click Apply.
  • Click on the Select icon and draw a box around the entire block, OR Enter CTRL-A to select all of the block.
  • Click on the Workflow icon.
    noimage

    1. In the Hoop field, select a 200mm x 200 mm hoop or similar for your machine from the drop down box.
    2. Click the Auto Build button.
    3. Click on Sort numbers. Click Yes in the message box.
      noimage
    4. The numbers have been sorted according to the order you will add them to the block.
      noimage
    5. Click Preview. I’ve filled in patch 1 with green for easy detection. On your file, look for the green outline. Click Save, located under Preview.
      noimage
    6. The software will automatically create a new folder with three files: the stitch file (select the format for your machine), the artwork of the block and the stitching instructions in PDF format.
      noimage
    7. Close the file window.
    8. Close the Save window.
  • Click the Cutter icon. noimage
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    1. Seam allowance default is .25”. Normally I change this to 0.4” or 0.5”, to make it easier to place the fabric pieces no matter which output format I choose.
    2. How you are going create the fabric pieces for the block, will determine which file format (hoop) to choose for the templates.
      1. If printing templates and using them to manually cut the fabric pieces, select the Paper Letter 210×279 from the Hoop field.
      2. If using the Scan and Cut, select Brother SCN 12x12”.
      3. If using the Silhouette, select Silhouette 12x12”.
      4. For digital cutting files, change the repeat from 1 to 4 if you are making the large quilt.
    3. Can Unclick Optimize Orientation if using a directional fabric (This will optimize how the pieces file on the paper.)
    4. Click Apply.
    5. Click Save.
      1. In File name enter Peony Templates.
      2. Click Save.
      3. The Following Files are created.
        1. Peony templates.pdf.
        2. Peony templates_preview.pdf.
      4. Close the files window.
      5. Close the Cutter window.
  • Print the templates, or prepare your fabric and send the templates to your cutter.
  • Load the design in your machine and have fun making this block.

 

 

 

 

Christmas Village Sewing Instructions

This is Part 2 of the Christmas Village series.  If you missed the software instructions, click here.  If there’s one thing you take away from the series it should be this:   You are permitted to break the rules.  Experiment.  Try.  Learn.  Succeed!

Refer to the original instructions with the collection to familiarize yourself with the overall process.  Don’t stop at one house – make multiple houses for an entire village.

First Hooping: Wall with Door

Here’s an overview of the stitching process for the wall with the new door.  The first 2 thread colors are the same process as the traditional house.  The images show the red felt trimmed away.

The Christmas tree, star and placement stitch for the door are stitched.  Then green felt was placed on top of the placement stitch for the door.  Next, I stitched the tackdown (bean stitch) for the door.  *Note in the software instructions I have you stitch the candy cane before any of the door elements.  This is for ease.  Either method is acceptable. 

I trimmed the felt for the door and stitched the next thread color—the outline for the window.

Very carefully, I cut away the green felt from the window.  I chose to leave the white felt.  But you could cut through both layers of fabric to “peek” through the door.

The candy cane was then stitched.  (Your design will have the candy cane stitch before the door elements.)  

Second Hooping:  Dog Door Converted to Window

The image shows the first two thread colors stitched.

The felt is carefully trimmed as shown.  I did not trim the original dog door at this point.  Leave it untrimmed.

Stitch the remaining elements:  the ribbon and present.  Remove from the hoop and trim the walls as shown.

The last step is trimming the dog door so that it resembles a window shutter.  I trimmed up the center.  Then trimmed along the top arch.  Then I trimmed the bottom.  The key to success:  I didn’t trim the sides.  See two photos below.

You can sew the shutters down with decorative buttons or use scrapbooking brads as shown.  I used brads for the signs that were attached to the house as well.

 

Additional Highlights

Trees:  The free standing trees are stitched on felt.

Trees are trimmed then a wooden bead with a flat bottom was glued to the back of the tree stump providing stability.

Roof & Lights

The roof was stitched and trimmed.  I used Duck Tape to attach mini Christmas lights to the underside of the roof.  The battery pack fit perfectly inside the base of the house.  If yours does not, conceal it behind the house with additional felt and snow.

The base of the house was stitched on decorative tan felt.

I assembled the house and sign post following the original instructions included with the Stitch Swag Cozy Dog Suites.  Embellish and have fun!


The Stitch Swag Cozy Dog Suites are available for purchase through an Inspirations Dealer.  Use the dealer locator to find a dealer near you.

Christmas Village: Software Instructions

Eileen tasked me with the responsibility of turning the Stitch Swag Cozy Dog Suite into an ornament.  At first glance, I thought I’d use Christmas colored fabric for the dog house.

But between the home renovation television programs I watch and my recent experimenting with building a railroad model… I knew I could do more.

I decided to renovate!  I converted the existing dog door to a window with shutters and installed a new front door.  I used built-in symbol designs in Perfect Embroidery Pro to make the house suitable for a Christmas Village.   With a little imagination and some robust software, there is no limit to what you can create.

Disclaimer:  I broke every rule in the book.  You have permission to do the same.


Embroidery Products
Stitch Swag Cozy Dog Suites:  I used the Large Dog House 1 originally designed for the 6” x 10” hoop.  There is a 5” x 7” version of the design, but the finished house is smaller.  I wanted a larger house.

Free Candy Cane:  http://www.dzgns.com.  Go to the Free Designs page.

Free Candy Cane Frame:  http://www.dzgns.com.  Go to the Free Designs page and scroll through the archives.

Denise’s Notes:
Although the original design combines design components into as few 6” x 10” hoopings as possible, I don’t work that way.  As a personal preference, I like to work with the 5” x 7” hoop.  I took the design components apart from the 6” x 10” design and stitched them using a 5” x 7” hoop.  I also didn’t use all the components.  Do what works for you.  This is a creative process.

Renovations at a Glance:

  1. A new front door was digitized and placed on the side of the original dog house.
  2. The original dog door became a window with shutters – just by changing how the opening was cut away.
  3. Symbols: Star, Ribbon2, Present, Christmas Tree were added to embellish the house.  These are built-in designs in Perfect Embroidery Pro.
  4. Mini Christmas lights were attached to the underside of the roof.  These are available at craft stores.

At the Computer:

Open Doghouse1 6×10 in Perfect Embroidery Pro.

Select and delete the Home Sign, 2 rows of grass and the lines of stitching separating the designs.

Since this is a winter scene, I decided to delete the floral elements on the house.  In the Sequence window, select and delete the grass and flowers on the house.

Your design should now look similar to the image shown.

We will use both portions of this house but I prefer working in a 5” x 7” hoop.  We will create two separate hoopings from this design.

First Hooping:  Wall with New Door

Select the top portion of the design as shown.

Cut and Paste the design into a new workspace.  (Press Ctrl + X to cut).  Click on File / New.  Press Ctrl + V to paste.  The remaining design will be revisited in the Second Hooping section of this article.

The newly pasted design should look like the image below.

For ease of working with the design, go to Properties – Transform.  Type 180 in the Rotate field.  Click Apply.

The design should look like the image below.  It will be easier to add the decorative elements when the wall is facing the correct direction.

Adding Symbols

Tree:
Go to the Symbols icon on the top toolbar.

Scroll through until you locate the Christmas Tree.  Click Ok.

In an empty space on the screen, left click the mouse button to create a tree.  Select the tree.  Go to Properties – Transform.  Change the width of the tree to:  1.25 and the height to 1.95.

The tree should now look like the sample shown.

Select the tree.  Reposition it on the wall as shown.

Star:
Go to the Symbols icon on the top toolbar.  Scroll through until you locate the Star.  Click Ok.

Click the left mouse button to create a star.  Select the star.  Go to the Properties – Transform tab.  Change the width to .52 and the height to .49.  Click Apply.  Reposition the star on top of the Tree.

New Front Door

Select the Rectangle from the Artwork icon on the top toolbar.

Hold down the left mouse button and draw a rectangle in an empty area on your work space.

With the rectangle still selected, go to the Properties – Transform box.  Uncheck the “Maintain aspect ratio” box.  Change the width to .77 inches and height to 1.14 inches.

Reposition the door so that it is centered on the side panel of the house as shown.

Denise’s Tip
Depending on the design, placement stitches may or may not be necessary.  For this small-scale project, I decided to include a placement stitch for the house.  This would prevent any doubt regarding the size of fabric needed for the door and where it should be placed.  If you’re comfortable without a placement stitch, skip the step!

Select the door artwork you created.  Right click.  Select Convert To / Run.

In an open space on the screen, create another rectangle shape using the Artwork tool.  Make the width .77 inches and height 1.14 inches.  Assign a new color to this shape that is different from the previous rectangle.  I chose green.  With the rectangle still selected, right click.  Select Convert To / Run.

In the Properties – Run box, select Bean for the stitch type.

Drag and drop the bean stitch door on top of the placement stitch door as shown.  Adjust the thread sequence so that the run stitch version of the door is stitched first followed by the bean stitch version of the door.

Using the Artwork tool, make the window for the door by drawing another shape.  This time, .46 inches wide by .43 inches tall.  I made this Artwork the same green color.  With the rectangle/square still selected, right click.  Select Convert To / Run.  Change this shape to a Bean stitch as you have done before.  Position this shape on the door as shown.  Make sure the window stitches after the bean stitch door.

Embellishments:  Candy Cane

Download the free Candy Cane design.  Once downloaded to your computer, go to File / Merge.  Select the Candy Cane Design.  Place the design on the left side of the door.

Rearrange the color sequence so the candy cane stitches before the door elements.  This will help prevent any mishaps if you don’t trim the door properly.

The design will be stitched in a 5″ x 7″ hoop.  Rotate the design 90 degrees to fit the hoop.  Save the design in C2S format and your machine’s format.


Second Hooping with Dog Door Converted to Window 

Return to the original design (Doghouse1 6×10) we cut and pasted from as shown in the image below.

Copy and paste this design into a new work space  (or work from this screen)

Go to the Symbols icon at the top toolbar.  Select the Ribbon2.

In an open space, click and drag the mouse button to create a ribbon.  Go to the Properties – Transform window.  Change the width to .93 inches and the height to .82 inches.

The ribbon should look similar to the image shown.

Reposition the ribbon above the window opening as shown.

Adding a Present

Go to the Symbols icon on the top toolbar.  Select the Present.

Drag the left mouse button to draw a present.  Resize the present to .92 inches square.  Reposition the present as shown.

The design will be stitched in a 5″ x 7″ hoop.  Rotate the design 90 degrees to fit the hoop.  Save the design in C2S format and your machine’s format.


Roof & Free Standing Trees

Open the Dog House Roof 1 6×10 design.

Delete all elements except the roof.  Rotate the roof so it fits in a 5” x 7” hoop.

Go to the top tool bar and select the Symbols icon.

Locate and select the Christmas Tree.

Click and drag the mouse to create a Christmas tree.  Go to Transform – Properties to change the size of the tree to 1.28” x 1.95”.

Copy and paste the tree for a total of 2 trees.

Save the file in C2S format and your machine’s format.


Decorative Signs

Open the Doghouse SignPost design.  Copy the Welcome sign and paste in to a new workspace.

Rotate the sign 270 degrees.

Select the first thread color in the Color Sequence.  This portion of the design is the outline of the sign.

Copy and paste the outline of the sign as shown.

Select the Text icon from the top toolbar.  Select the Goudy Small font.

Type “2017”.  Center the date within the sign as shown.

Copy and paste another outline of the sign.  Select this new copy.  Resize to 2.76 inches wide x .62 inches tall.  Flip horizontal.

With this new sign still selected, copy and paste another copy as shown.

Go to File / Merge to insert the letters to spell CANDY on one sign and LANE on the other.  (A complete alphabet is included with the Stitch Swag Cozy Dog Suites collection).

Rearrange the color sequence so the sign outlines stitch first, from top to bottom followed by the text.

Return to the original Doghouse SignPost design you opened.

Copy and paste the SignPost into the workspace.

Rearrange all elements so they fit in a 5” x 7” hoop.  Save the design in C2S format and your machine’s format.

Candy Cane Frame as Base

Download the Candy Cane frame from http://www.dzgns.com.  No edits were made to the design.  Send the design to your embroidery machine in the appropriate format.

The Sewing Instructions are included in Part 2 of this blog series.

 


The Stitch Swag Cozy Dog Suite is available through Inspirations Dealers.  Click the image below to find a dealer near you.

Volume 103 It Started with a Quilt Block – Signpost Lesson

It Started with a Quilt Block was featured in the March/April 2017 issue of Designs in Machine Embroidery magazine. Since space is limited on the printed page, you’ll find the details for creating the quilt’s sign post.

Experiment by using your favorite quote or saying for your own signpost.  Dime’s Patch Attach was used to fuse the final sample to the quilt.

Inspirations’ Word Art in Stitches and Perfect Embroidery Pro software programs pack a powerful punch when you have both installed on your computer.  If you do, the Word Art in Stitches features are available WITHIN the Perfect Embroidery Pro software. You don’t have to open both software programs!  Duplicate these steps to create your signpost.


Step 1.  Make the Frame
Open Perfect Embroidery Pro.  On the right side of the screen, click on the Bubble Text icon from Word Art in Stitches.

The window below will open.  Click on the three dots to view the catalog.

Click on Objects / Borders.  Select Borders-10.

Do not type any text in the Words field.  Don’t worry about the size.  The size will be adjusted later.  Click OK.

The frame will appear on the screen.

Select the frame.  Click on the Transform tab on the right side of the screen.  Make sure the “Maintain aspect ratio” button is selected.  Change the frame size to 5 inches  Click OK.

 

With the frame still selected, right click and select Convert To / Applique

In the Properties – Applique box, select “Change Colors.”  Click Apply to update the design.

Repeat Step 1 to add a second frame inside the outer frame. I made the inside frame 4.4” x 3.15”.

Once you’ve completed the inner frame, your design should look similar to the image below.

Change the color of the second frame (any color) to make it easier to maneuver.

Step 2.  Express yourself with a fun message!

Select the Text icon at the top toolbar.

Type:

“Let your” <press Enter key>

“ideas take” <press Enter key>

“shape!” <press Enter key>

Select the Arial font.  Resize to:  3.5” width.  Change the Line spacing to 100 percent.  This will add space between each row of text.  Click Apply when finished.

Center the text on the frame.

I wanted to add emphasis to the words “ideas” and “shape” by using a different thread color.  I can stop the machine before it stitches those words.  Then switch the thread color. But that’s a hassle and I’m easily distracted.  Or I can use the “Break Up Text” feature. Breaking up the text transforms the text data into stitches. All editing will then be done on each individual stitch (or letter if you group them) instead of the entire text word or phrase. It’s best to edit the text (envelopes, spacing, etc) before applying Break Up Text.   Note: It’s wise to save the design in its original version before applying Break Up Text.   Make your changes and save the new version under a new name.

Select the text.  Right click.  Select Break Up Text.

Each letter is a design – not text.

Select the appropriate letters for “ideas” and “shape!”

At the bottom of the screen, right click to add another thread color.

Right click on the Yellow to make the selection yellow.

Your design will look similar to the sample below.  Don’t worry about the colors – you have the freedom to select any thread colors once you’re at the machine.  😉

Double check the stitching sequence is correct.  Save the design and send to the embroidery machine.


Step 3.  Stitching the Sign

Hoop Water Soluble Stabilizer in a 5” x 7” hoop.  Stitch the first thread color—the placement stitch.  Place the wood grain fabric down.  Stitch Color 2, the tack down stitch.  Remove the hoop but do not unhoop the project.  Trim the excess fabric.

Return the hoop to the embroidery machine.  Stitch Color 3, the satin stitching around the outer frame.  Stitch Color 4, the placement stitch for the inner frame.

Continue the process to stitch the inner frame.

The finished sign should look similar to the sample:

Trim away the water soluble stabilizer leaving about a quarter inch all the way around the design.  Soak the design until the water soluble stabilizer dissolves.  Let the frame dry completely.  Iron the frame flat.

Audition the sign on your quilt.  Measure the distance to the grass to determine how long a strip to make for the signpost.  I cut my signpost 6 1/2″ tall by 1 inch wide.  I folded the fabric 1/4″ lengthwise on both sides to create a clean edge.  I ironed it flat for perfect creases.

I ironed Patch Attach permanent adhesive to the sign and the post then I ironed them on to the quilt.


Additional Ideas:

  • Use this method to add labels to the back of your quilt.
  • Word Art in Stitches has a variety of shapes – not just frames.  Experiment with animal shapes, food or people!  

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