Just like lampshades and overhead fans at home, your multi-needle machine deserves to be dust-free. It will sparkle and perform at its very best if you keep the upper thread path clean. Set aside 45 minutes to an hour to give it the full spa treatment.
Even though my photographs don’t show it, it is a good idea to unthread all ten needles (I was in a rush to take my photographs!). Slip the bristles of the small brush that comes with your machine under the upper thread guide to remove any lint. 
Clean the thread guide behind the tension discs. 
Take a larger, natural bristle brush to clean around the tension disks. 
To disassemble the tension disk, turn the black dial counter clockwise. 
Set it aside. 
Remove the spring (keep the top plastic part with the spring – it is a separate part). 
Remove the plastic base. 
Remove the tension disc and blue felt washer. 
Remove the bottom felt washer. 
Clean the base with the brush. 
Place the bottom felt washer back on the base. Add the tension disc (magnet side down) with its blue washer on top. 
Add the plastic base, spring and tension dial. Turn the dial clockwise to tighten. Repeat for all ten needles. After you’ve cleaned each tension disk, stitch the tension test design to critique the tension on each needle. Make any necessary adjustments. 
This photo was taken at an office while I was getting my car registration.
The tool will remove the majority of bobbin stitches and you will still need a traditional seam ripper along with sharp tweezers, good lighting and your “readers”. Gently hold the Peggy Stitch eraser and start to cut the bobbin stitches from the back of fabric. Flip the fabric over and use the seam ripper as needed. I like to use the tweezers to pull out the loose threads.
The new initial “T” is going to be stitched on the appliqué fabric next to the “S”. The scanning function will be used to precisely place the letter.
The “T” is shown in black because it is much easier to see on the screen when adjusting the location. The zoom feature helps you to clearly see if the letter or design is in the proper place.
Now you have a realistic view of exactly how the new monogram will look.
You could make a removable tutu by sewing the tulle on a narrow band of elastic. I opted for the permanent skirt and used a long basting stitch 4.0 to attach the 2 layers. Sew the basting stitch 1″ from edge.
Pull the bobbin thread at one end gather the tulle to make soft folds. Hold in place with a pin and stitch the short ends of tulle together to form the skirt.
Place the template on the garment. Locate the exact location for the embroidery design to be stitched. Slide the positioning sticker under the template cross hair mark and remove the template.
Select the embroidery design and always take notice of the actual size on the screen; the size 3.09×3.23inches. The design will fit in the hoop.
Touch the positioning sticker or Snowman icon on the screen.
The screen will most likely tell you the “the design extends out the pattern area”. Your first thought is to re-hoop the onsie in a larger hoop. But go back to the edit screen and decrease the size a bit.
Now touch the positioning icon once more and it will fit as needed. You might have to re-adjust the size a few times at the screen, but it is easier than re-hooping a baby onsie. The reason for this message appears because the machine wants the ability to completely rotate the embroidery design within the hoop. If the positioning sticker is not completely centered in the hoop (especially if using a small hoop) it will want you to re-hoop the item.
Hoop the top edge as shown in the hoop with the stabilizer. Place a piece of blue painter’s tape along the stitched seam of the satin and fleece.
Attach the hoop to the machine and open the text for the blanket “scan” the blanket. 
The blue tape gives you a straight reference line to precisely place the text. Remove the tape when pleased with the layout.
Follow the same steps for the bottom of blanket and make sure the text is in the proper orientation.
