Archive of ‘Quilting with your embroidery machine’ category

Celebration Quilt

Celebration Quilt – Sashing Instructions

We’re wrapping up the Block of the Month series from the Volume 118, September/October issue of Designs in Machine Embroidery.

Download the files for the sashing here: Celebration Quilt Sashing

Horizontal Sashing Units

Piece four cornerstones to three sashing strips.  Make five horizontal sashing units.  Set aside.

Block Units

Piece four sashing strips to the sides of three blocks as shown.  Repeat for four rows.

Piece one block unit to one horizontal sashing unit.

Add another block unit to the pieced block/horizontal sashing unit, matching the seams of the cornerstones to the blocks.

Continue piecing the quilt.

Add the borders.  Press the quilt. 

Quilting with a Sewing Machine

Cut the batting and backing 41” x 50”.  Place the backing on a flat surface, wrong side up.  Center the batting on top.

Center the quilt top on the batting. Pin baste the quilt.  Stitch in the ditch around all blocks with the sewing machine.  Use a decorative stitch such as a serpentine stitch to quilt the borders.

Quilting with an Embroidery Machine

Download the sashing and cornerstone designs from the blog (http://www.dzgns.com/blog). Hoop each sashing and cornerstone

Trim the excess backing and batting.  Bind.

Quilting Big Quilts on an Embroidery Machine

There are several ways to handle the bulk of a large quilt. How large is large?  In my book, large is any dimension beyond a crib size quilt (36″ x 52″).  Once a quilt is wider than four hoopings, it’s time to pay attention to the weight of the quilt.

A few weeks ago, I discussed handling a large quilt in my Facebook Live session on the Weightless Quilter. You can watch that broadcast here.

Tomorrow at 1:00 CST, I’ll demonstrate the shortE – the Embroidery Short Arm with a Long Reach.  Since it’s quilting month here at DIME, I figured it was a good time to have a live Q&A on the topic.  The shortE is set up in the studio so you’ll get a good look at it and you can watch the quilting process.  I’ll discuss how to prepare a quilt when using the shortE, how to ‘work the quilt’ and what’s the difference between quilting on the shortE vs. the Weightless Quilter.

 

 

Quilting Small Projects with Big Impact

Join me tomorrow on Facebook Live at 1:00 CST for a tutorial on quilting small projects.  Even though we’re talking small – table runner or smaller, the details make a difference.  We’ll start with the base and look at tone-on-tone, large scale and micro prints.  Then we’ll discuss the quilting designs – what to look for, how to multiply your stash, and how to achieve different moods with a variety of threads.

After we finalize those details, we’ll get to the nitty gritty of fabric prep, hooping and stitching.  I hope you’ll watch and participate!  That’s the beauty of Facebook Live! You can ask questions and get answers during the broadcast!  What a world we’re living in today!  See you tomorrow at 1:00 PM CST.  Just log onto https://www.facebook.com/DesignsInMachineEmbroidery/

 

Weighed Down by Quilting?

Not anymore with the ease of the Weightless Quilter!

Watch today’s Facebook LIVE and see why the weightless quilter is a perfect solution to your quilting needs.

Take advantage of our early bird Facebook special with code WQFB10 ($10 off shipping!) and get a FREE quilting template bundle when you act now: https://www.shop.dzgns.com/collections/specials/products/weightless-quilter

Block of the Month – Block 12

Block 12 – Star Block Instructions

We’re up to Block 12 in the Block of the Month series from the July/August issue of Designs in Machine Embroidery.  You’ll find everything you need for Block 12, video instructions, step-by-step instructions and all download files.  Enjoy!

If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.

Download the files for block ten here: Block 12

Materials Needed – for 1 block

Base Block 9” square – muslin or No Show Mesh

Back Block – 9” square

Front – all cut parts from MBP

Warm and Natural or White Batting – 7 7/8” square

Block 12

1 – Back Block

2 – Bottom Base Muslin

3 – Top Base No Show Mesh

4 – Batting

5 – Background

6 – Corner

7 – Star Points

LOADING THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER

Follow the directions included with the purchase of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother Snap Hoop Monster.

 

Place the muslin flat on the work surface. Center the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.

Insert the batting into the opening of
the Maker. Place the Top base No Show Mesh over the batting.

 

Working from the center out, firmly
press the No Show Mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on
 the edges of the Maker.

 

Attach the hoop to the machine.

 

STITCHING THE BLOCK

Stitch color #1, the block layout.  Place glue at fabric #1 as shown in blue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #1, right side up,
aligning the fabric edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #2, the
tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #2, right side down, aligning the raw edges and stitch color #3, the seam.  Place glue at fabric #2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #2 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #3.

 

 

Place fabric #3, right side down, and
stitch color #5, the seam. Place glue at fabric #3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #3 open and finger press
the seam.  Smooth the fabric and stitch color #6, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam of fabric #4.

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #4, right side down, and
stitch color #7, the seam. Place glue at fabric #4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #4 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #8, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #5, right side down, and
stitch color #9. Place glue at fabric #5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip open fabric #5 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #10. Place glue at the seam for
fabric #6.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #6, right side down, and
stitch color #11. Place glue at fabric #6.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip open fabric #6 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #12.

 

 

 

 

 

 

BLOCK EMBELLISHMENT

Stitch colors #14, 15 and 16 – the
embellishments

Congratulations, your Star Block is complete!

 

 

 

Block of the Month – Block 11

Block 11 – Diamond Snowball Block Instructions

We’re up to Block 11 in the Block of the Month series from the July/August issue of Designs in Machine Embroidery.  You’ll find everything you need for Block 11, video instructions, step-by-step instructions and all download files.  Enjoy!

If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.

Download the files for block ten here: Block 11

 Recommended fabric for 1 Block

Base Block one 9” square – muslin or No Show Mesh

Back Block – 9” square

Front – all cut parts from Block 11 Diamond Snowball

Warm and Natural or White Batting – 7 7/8” square

Block 11 Diamond Snowball Block Supplies

1 – Back Block

2 – Bottom Base Muslin

3 – Top Base No Show Mesh

4 – Batting

5 – Center

6 – Middle Corners

7 – Corners

LOADING THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER

Follow the directions included with the purchase
of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother
Snap Hoop Monster.

 

Place the muslin flat on the work surface. Center
the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.

Insert the batting into the opening of
the Maker. Place the Top base No Show Mesh over the batting.

 

Working from the center out, firmly
press the No Show Mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on
the edges of the Maker.

 

Attach the hoop to the machine.

 

STITCHING THE BLOCK

Stitch color #1, the block layout.  Place glue at fabric #1 as shown in blue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #1, right side up,
aligning the fabric edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #2, the
tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #2.

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #2, right side down, aligning
the raw edges and stitch color #3, the seam.  Place glue at fabric #2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #2 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #3.

 

 

Place fabric #3, right side down, and
stitch color #5, the seam. Place glue at fabric #3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #3 open and finger press
the seam.  Smooth the fabric and stitch
color #6, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam of fabric #4.

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #4, right side down, and
stitch color #7, the seam. Place glue at fabric #4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #4 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #8, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #5, right side down, and
stitch color #9. Place glue at fabric #5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip open fabric #5 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #10. Place glue at the seam for
fabric #6.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #6, right side down, and
stitch color #11. Place glue at fabric #6.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip open fabric #6 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #12. Place glue at the seam for
fabric #7.

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #7, right side down, and
stitch color #13. Place glue at fabric #7.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip open fabric #7 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #14. Place glue at the seam for
fabric #8.

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #8, right side down, and
stitch color #15. Place glue at fabric #8.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip open fabric #8 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #16. Place glue at the seam for
fabric #9.

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #9, right side down, and
stitch color #17. Place glue at fabric #9.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip open fabric #9 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #18.

 

 

 

 

ADDING THE EMBELLISHMENT

Stitch colors #20 and 21, the
embellishments.

Congratulations your Diamond Snowball block is complete!

 

 

 

Block of the Month – Block 10

Special Announcement: Join embroidery expert Deborah Jones tomorrow (Thursday, July 11, 2019) on Designs in Machine Embroidery’s Facebook Live at 1:00 PM CST.  She’ll be discussing precision placement on multiples because who wants to stitch ten napkins to get eight that match?

Now back to business, read below for the Block 10 instructions of the Block of the Month series:

Block 10 – Zig Zag Block Instructions

We’re up to Block 10 in the Block of the Month series from the July/August issue of Designs in Machine Embroidery.  You’ll find everything you need for Block 10, video instructions, step-by-step instructions and all download files.  Enjoy!

If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.

Download the files for block ten here: Block 10

Recommended fabric for 1 Block

Base Block – one 9” square – muslin or No Show Mesh

Back Block – 9” square

Front – all cut parts from Block 10/Cut Files

Warm and Natural or White Batting – 7 7/8” square

Block 10 Supplies

1 – Back Block

2 – Bottom Base Muslin

3 – Top Base No Show Mesh

4 – Batting

5 – Background

6 – Center

7 – corners

LOADING THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER

Follow the directions included with the purchase
of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother
Snap Hoop Monster.

 

Place the muslin flat on the work surface. Center
the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.

Insert the batting into the opening of
the Maker. Place the Top base No Show Mesh over the batting.

 

Working from the center out, firmly
press the No Show Mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on
the edges of the Maker.

 

Attach the hoop to the machine.

 

STITCHING THE BLOCK

Stitch color #1, the block layout.  Place glue at fabric #1 as shown in blue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #1, right side up,
aligning the fabric edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #2, the
tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #2.

 

Place fabric #2, right side down, aligning
the raw edges and stitch color #3, the seam.  Place glue at fabric #2.

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #2 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #3.

 

Place fabric #3, right side down, and
stitch color #5, the seam. Place glue at fabric #3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #3 open and finger press
the seam.  Smooth the fabric and stitch
color #6, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam of fabric #4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #4, right side down, and
stitch color #7, the seam. Place glue at fabric #4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #4 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #8, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #5, right side down, and
stitch color #9. Place glue at fabric #5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip open fabric #5 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #10.

 

 

 

 

 

 

ADDING THE EMBELLISHMENT

Stitch colors #12, 13, and 14, the
embellishments.

Congratulations, your Zig Zag block is complete!

My 5 Embroidery Pet Peeves

Machine embroidery is supposed to be beautiful.  And the process of making beautiful embroidery should be fun and enjoyable.  But all of that can be for naught when the experience is dampened by poor results, painful tasks and laborious placement. Enough already!  Let’s get the fun back into embroidery.

I have five pet peeves that annoy the daylights out of me when I’m embroidering.  And since I’ve been doing this for over 20 years, I’ve come up with solutions.  My pet peeves are hoop burn, hand strain, fabric distortion, laborious placement and tedious rehooping. What’s my solution? I ditched the standard hoop about 10 years ago and haven’t looked back.* Let me elaborate.

When knits, textured and napped fabrics are squeezed between two standard embroidery rings, the hoop often leaves a noticeable impression around the embroidery.  Those lofty and delicate fibers are now flattened – and possibly permanently flattened. Yikes!  The flat frames of Snap Hoop Monster leave no hoop burn – they firmly grip the fabrics and hold them in place without permanently damaging the fibers.

Twenty years of embroidery can wreak havoc on your hands, fingers and wrists.  Pushing an inner ring into an outer ring and tightening a screw 5, 10, 20 or maybe 30 times a day is grueling punishment.  No more.  I just snap that magnetic top frame over the bottom and I’m done!

Fabric distortion is a thing of the past because I pull and tug on the hooped fabric while it’s hooped in Snap Hoop Monster.  It’s the inner and outer rings that squeeze and distort fabric – doesn’t happen when fabric is sandwiched between two flat objects – a magnetic top and metal bottom.

I’ve invented all kinds of placement tools but sometimes I want to move the fabric just a smidgen under the needle.  With Snap Hoop Monster, I lift the top frame, slide the fabric, drop the frame back in place and press start!  No hooping and unhooping to move the fabric a millimeter or two.  I like the freedom Snap Hoop Monster gives me right at the machine.

Speaking of the machine, when I use Snap Hoop Monster, I can remove the top frame and advance the fabric to the next hooping without taking the bottom frame off the machine!  Oh my, what a time saver!  If you’re not sure why I love that benefit so much, take a look at this video.  It’s long – about 12 minutes – but you’ll see how I quilt entire quilt (62” x 80”) in one day!  Oh baby – I love those Monster hoops!

If you’ve been following along, this month is Hoopapalooza at DIME and in honor of that celebration, The Hoop It Up book is on sale.  My Stitching Sister Marie Zinno and I co-wrote this handy hooping tutorial.  You’ll find 99 hooping tips in there!  You can check it out here: https://www.shop.dzgns.com/collections/specials/products/hoop-it-up

*’Ditched the standard hoop over 10 years’ is an exaggeration.  I still use a standard hoop on occasion as you’ll see in the Hoop It Up book!

Quilts, Monster Blocks, and Birthdays-Oh My!

If you watched my Facebook LIVE session today, you know I discussed lots of things going on here at DIME including my promise of sharing the how-to for making the China Cabinet Quilt, Monster Block Maker, and birthday shout outs to our friends Scott Goodman and Marie Zinno! Marie will actually be joining us for our next Facebook LIVE event on June 12th.

Oh and great news! We did an entire broadcast without any sound issues or grainy images!

Designs in Machine Embroidery

image via giphy.com

Watch Below:

Make sure to take advantage of our weekly special, the Monster Block Maker, here: https://www.shop.dzgns.com/collections/specials/products/monster-block-maker

China Cabinet

The China Cabinet was published in a very early issue (issue #5) of Designs in Machine Embroidery – dating back to 2000 – that’s 19 years ago!  Some of the information in the original article is not applicable today as the embroidery designs are not all of the embroidery designs are available.  Today, you can find most of the original designs at http://www.greatnotions.com. Many design companies have similar designs so be sure to search in your favorite source.  I searched at http://www.emblibrary.com and found great substitutes for the designs shown on the original quilt.

Stack of teacups: https://www.emblibrary.com/EL/Products.aspx?Catalog=Emblibrary&ProductID=M10805

Collection of cups: https://www.emblibrary.com/EL/Products.aspx?Catalog=Emblibrary&ProductID=X10511

The original teacup with doily:

https://www.greatnotions.com/pr/embroidery/great-notions/floral-cup,-doily–spoon/1/58183.aspx

The original Teapot collection:

https://www.greatnotions.com/pr/packs/great-notions/tea-pot-1/1/74480.aspx

Mimic Real Life Furniture

Observe the direction of wood grain in real furniture to guide you in cutting your fabric sections. In the China Cabinet quilt, the wood grain runs vertically in the back of the shelves, door fronts and side moldings sections.  The grain runs horizontally on the shelves, valance and kickboard.

Cut the Fabrics

Wood Grain (purchase 2 yd. to allow ample fabric for directional cutting)

Vertical Direction

Cut three recessed shelf panels: 28” x 9”

Cut two cabinet doors:  10 ½” x 10”

Cut four cabinet door frames: 1 ¾” x 8 ½”

Cut two side moldings: 3” x 33”

Cut one recessed book area: 6” x 7”

Horizontal Direction

Cut three shelves: 26 ½” 1 ¾”

Cut one top valance: 30 ½” x 3 ½”

Cut one valance: 25 ¾” x 3 ½”

Cut one kickboard: 30 ½” x 4 ¼”

Cut two cabinet door frames: 8” x 4”

Cut two cabinet door frames: 8” x 1 ¾”

Cut two facings: 32” x 3”

Black Tulle (2 yd.)

Cut six recessed shelf panels: 28” x 9”

Cut four cabinet doors: 10 ½” x 10”

Cut two recessed book area: 6” x 7”

Backing and Batting

34” x 42”

Recessed Panels: The addition of black tulle over the wood grain fabric adds a realistic dimension to your project.

Place two layers of black tulle on a Teflon pressing surface.  Place fusible web (paper side up) on the tulle.  Press with a hot dry iron.  Let cool.  Carefully peel the protective paper away and reserve it.  Place the right side of the wood grain fabric onto the adhesive side of the tulle.  Cover with the protective paper and press.  Continue pressing to melt all the adhesive into the wood grain fabric.  I found flipping the fabric over and pressing on both sides helped speed the process along.  Do this for three recessed shelf panels and the cabinet doors.

Piece the shelf fabric to the bottom of each tulle/wood grain recessed section with ¼” seam allowance.

Embroidery: Print templates of each design to use for placement.  Evenly space the embroidery designs across the shelves, sitting the base of the teapots, stacked cups and plates on the shelf. The teacup design with the lace doily will stitch over the shelf.

Hoop tear away wash away stabilizer with the tulle/wood grain fabric for each embroidery design.

Add other elements from your design stash.  The bottom shelf on this sample has pies, fruit bowls, candle, Shaker baskets and canisters.  Have fun with this!

Once all embroidery is complete, piece the bottom row:  the two cabinet doors and books.  The book section is strips of fabric (varied widths and heights) pieced to strips of tulle/wood grain fabric.  The finished size of this unit is 6” x 10”.

Piece the bottom row to the shelves.

Valance: Place the 30 ½” x 3 ½” valance right sides together with a 30 ½” x 3 ½” piece of tulle. Sew with a gently curved seam on the lower edge to mimic the valance on a real china cabinet.  Then turn right side out and press.  Baste the valance to the top of the shelf unit.

Piece the side moldings to the quilt. Piece the bottom kickboard to the quilt.

Quilt: Make a quilt sandwich with the quilt top, batting and backing fabric.  Free motion quilt in the direction of the wood grain in the recessed areas.  Stitch in the ditch in all seams.

Trim the quilt.  Place a strip of facing fabric on the top and bottom. Sew a shaped curved edge on the top valance.  Add feet on the bottom.  Trim close to the stitching lines and turn the facing to the back of the quilt and press.  Bind the vertical sides of the quilt. Add a sleeve for hanging.

I hope you enjoy the pattern and I encourage you to add your own touches.  Change the width, add more shelves or give it a modern slant with sleek lines and edges.  Most of all – make it yours!

Block of the Month – Block 9

Block 9 – Wacky Tree Block Instructions

We’re up to Block 9 in the Block of the Month series from the May/June issue of Designs in Machine Embroidery.  You’ll find everything you need for Block 9, video instructions, step-by-step instructions and all download files.  Enjoy!

If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.

Download the files for block nine here: Block 9 

Materials for 1 block

Base Blocks: 9” squares – muslin or No Show Mesh
Front – all cut parts from MBP
Warm and Natural or White Batting: 7 7/8” square

Here are the parts you’ll need for the Big Block

1 – Back Block

2 – Bottom Base Muslin

3 – Top Base No Show Mesh

4 – Batting

5 – background

6 – trunk

7 through 11 – tree parts

12 – sky

13 – side borders

14 – top and bottom borders

LOADING THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER

Follow the directions included with the purchase of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother hoop.

Place the muslin flat on the table. Center the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.

Insert the batting in the opening of the Maker.

Place the Top base No Show Mesh over the batting.

Working from the center out, firmly
press the No Show Mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on the edges of the Maker.

Attach the hoop to the machine. 

STITCHING THE BLOCK

Stitch color #1, the block layout. Place glue at fabric #1. 

Place fabric #1, right side up,
aligning the fabric edges with the stitched outline.  Stitch color 2, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #2.

Place fabric #2, right side down, aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #3. Place glue at fabric #2. 

Flip fabric #2 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #3.

Place fabric #3, right side down,
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. 

Stitch color #5, the seam. Place glue at fabric #3.  

Flip fabric #3 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #6. Place glue at the seam for fabric #4.

Place fabric #4, right side down,
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #7, the seam. Place glue at fabric #4.

Flip fabric #4 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #8. Place glue at the seam for fabric #5. 

Place fabric #5, right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #9, the seam. Place glue at fabric #5.

Flip fabric #5 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #10. Place glue at the seam for fabric #6.

Place fabric #6, right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #11, the seam. Place glue at fabric #7. 

Flip fabric #6 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #12, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #7. 

Place fabric #7 right side face aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #13, the seam. Place glue at fabric #7. 

Flip fabric #7 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #14, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #8.

Place fabric #8 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #15, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #8.

Flip fabric #8 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric stitch color #16.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #9. 

Place fabric #9 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.  Stitch color #17, the seam. Place glue at fabric #9.
 

Flip fabric #9 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color #18, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #10. 

Place fabric #10 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. 

Stitch color #19, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #10. 

Flip fabric #10 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric stitch color #20. Place glue at the seam for fabric #11. 

Place fabric #11 right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #21, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #11. 

Flip fabric #11 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #22, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #12. 

Place fabric #12 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #21, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #11. 

Flip fabric #11 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #22, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #13.

Place fabric #13 right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #25, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #13.

Flip fabric #13 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #26, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #14. 

Place fabric #14 right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #27, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #14. 

Flip fabric #14 open and finger press the seam.  Smooth the fabric and stitch color #28, the tackdown.

Stitch colors #30, 31, 32 and 33 – the embellishments

Congratulations your Wacky Tree block is complete!

 

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