Today we had our best LIVE yet! It was so much fun engaging with all of you and Eileen loved answering all of your questions. We also featured more of your #dimedoors for our #dimesewalong ! The creativity is inspiring. Check out the video below to see for yourself and get some questions you may have about magnetic hoops and quilting answered!
Need assistance applying your ruler to your Monster frame? Download the cross hair embroidery designs by CLICKING HERE.
Quilt with your embroidery machine? Yes, you can! There’s so many ways to quilt in the hoop. You can quilt and applique in one hooping, or custom quilt individual blocks or finish a whole quilt with overall quilting. Join me on Thursday, January 16 at 1:00 PM CST on Facebook Live. We’ll have fun exploring all the possibilities so bring your questions, I’m happy to help you finish your quilt tops. See you on Facebook Live or YouTube. All you have to do is log on at 1:00 on either site to join in the fun. See you at 1:00!
Piece four cornerstones to three sashing strips.Make five horizontal sashing units.Set aside.
Block Units
Piece four sashing strips to the sides of three blocks as shown.Repeat for four rows.
Piece one block unit to one horizontal sashing unit.
Add another block unit to the pieced block/horizontal sashing unit, matching the seams of the cornerstones to the blocks.
Continue piecing the quilt.
Add the borders.Press the quilt.
Quilting with a Sewing Machine
Cut the batting and backing 41” x 50”.Place the backing on a flat surface, wrong side up.Center the batting on top.
Center the quilt top on the batting. Pin baste the quilt.Stitch in the ditch around all blocks with the sewing machine.Use a decorative stitch such as a serpentine stitch to quilt the borders.
Quilting with an Embroidery Machine
Download the sashing and cornerstone designs from the blog (http://www.dzgns.com/blog). Hoop each sashing and cornerstone
There are several ways to handle the bulk of a large quilt. How large is large? In my book, large is any dimension beyond a crib size quilt (36″ x 52″). Once a quilt is wider than four hoopings, it’s time to pay attention to the weight of the quilt.
A few weeks ago, I discussed handling a large quilt in my Facebook Live session on the Weightless Quilter. You can watch that broadcast here.
Tomorrow at 1:00 CST, I’ll demonstrate the shortE – the Embroidery Short Arm with a Long Reach. Since it’s quilting month here at DIME, I figured it was a good time to have a live Q&A on the topic. The shortE is set up in the studio so you’ll get a good look at it and you can watch the quilting process. I’ll discuss how to prepare a quilt when using the shortE, how to ‘work the quilt’ and what’s the difference between quilting on the shortE vs. the Weightless Quilter.
Join me tomorrow on Facebook Live at 1:00 CST for a tutorial on quilting small projects. Even though we’re talking small – table runner or smaller, the details make a difference. We’ll start with the base and look at tone-on-tone, large scale and micro prints. Then we’ll discuss the quilting designs – what to look for, how to multiply your stash, and how to achieve different moods with a variety of threads.
After we finalize those details, we’ll get to the nitty gritty of fabric prep, hooping and stitching. I hope you’ll watch and participate! That’s the beauty of Facebook Live! You can ask questions and get answers during the broadcast! What a world we’re living in today! See you tomorrow at 1:00 PM CST. Just log onto https://www.facebook.com/DesignsInMachineEmbroidery/
We’re up to Block 12 in the Block of the Month series from the July/August issue of Designs in Machine Embroidery. You’ll find everything you need for Block 12, video instructions, step-by-step instructions and all download files. Enjoy!
If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.
Follow the directions included with the purchaseof Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother Snap Hoop Monster.
Place the muslin flat on the work surface. Centerthe Monster Block Maker on the muslin.
Insert the batting into the opening of
the Maker. Place the Top base No Show Mesh over the batting.
Working from the center out, firmly
press the No Show Mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape onthe edges of the Maker.
Attach the hoop to the machine.
STITCHING THE BLOCK
Stitch color #1, the block layout. Place glue at fabric #1 as shown in blue.
Place fabric #1, right side up,
aligning the fabric edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #2, the
tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #2.
Place fabric #2, right side down, aligning the raw edges and stitch color #3, the seam. Place glue at fabric #2.
Flip fabric #2 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #3.
Place fabric #3, right side down, and
stitch color #5, the seam. Place glue at fabric #3.
Flip fabric #3 open and finger press
the seam.Smooth the fabric and stitch color #6, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam of fabric #4.
Place fabric #4, right side down, and
stitch color #7, the seam. Place glue at fabric #4.
Flip fabric #4 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #8, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #5.
Place fabric #5, right side down, and
stitch color #9. Place glue at fabric #5.
Flip open fabric #5 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #10. Place glue at the seam for
fabric #6.
Place fabric #6, right side down, and
stitch color #11. Place glue at fabric #6.
Flip open fabric #6 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #12.
We’re up to Block 11 in the Block of the Month series from the July/August issue of Designs in Machine Embroidery. You’ll find everything you need for Block 11, video instructions, step-by-step instructions and all download files. Enjoy!
If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.
Front – all cutparts from Block 11 Diamond Snowball
Warm andNatural or White Batting – 7 7/8” square
Block 11 Diamond Snowball Block Supplies
1 – Back Block
2 – Bottom Base Muslin
3 – Top Base No Show Mesh
4 – Batting
5 – Center
6 – Middle Corners
7 – Corners
LOADING THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER
Follow the directions included with the purchase
of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother
Snap Hoop Monster.
Place the muslin flat on the work surface. Center
the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.
Insert the batting into the opening of
the Maker. Place the Top base No Show Mesh over the batting.
Working from the center out, firmly
press the No Show Mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on
the edges of the Maker.
Attach the hoop to the machine.
STITCHING THE BLOCK
Stitch color #1, the block layout. Place glue at fabric #1 as shown in blue.
Place fabric #1, right side up,
aligning the fabric edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #2, the
tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #2.
Place fabric #2, right side down, aligning
the raw edges and stitch color #3, the seam. Place glue at fabric #2.
Flip fabric #2 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #3.
Place fabric #3, right side down, and
stitch color #5, the seam. Place glue at fabric #3.
Flip fabric #3 open and finger press
the seam.Smooth the fabric and stitch
color #6, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam of fabric #4.
Place fabric #4, right side down, and
stitch color #7, the seam. Place glue at fabric #4.
Flip fabric #4 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #8, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #5.
Place fabric #5, right side down, and
stitch color #9. Place glue at fabric #5.
Flip open fabric #5 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #10. Place glue at the seam for
fabric #6.
Place fabric #6, right side down, and
stitch color #11. Place glue at fabric #6.
Flip open fabric #6 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #12. Place glue at the seam for
fabric #7.
Place fabric #7, right side down, and
stitch color #13. Place glue at fabric #7.
Flip open fabric #7 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #14. Place glue at the seam for
fabric #8.
Place fabric #8, right side down, and
stitch color #15. Place glue at fabric #8.
Flip open fabric #8 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #16. Place glue at the seam for
fabric #9.
Place fabric #9, right side down, and
stitch color #17. Place glue at fabric #9.
Flip open fabric #9 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #18.
ADDING THE EMBELLISHMENT
Stitch colors #20 and 21, the
embellishments.
Congratulations your Diamond Snowball block is complete!
Special Announcement: Join embroidery expert Deborah Jones tomorrow (Thursday, July 11, 2019) on Designs in Machine Embroidery’s Facebook Live at 1:00 PM CST. She’ll be discussing precision placement on multiples because who wants to stitch ten napkins to get eight that match?
Now back to business, read below for the Block 10 instructions of the Block of the Month series:
Block10 – Zig Zag Block Instructions
We’re up to Block 10 in the Block of the Month series from the July/August issue of Designs in Machine Embroidery. You’ll find everything you need for Block 10, video instructions, step-by-step instructions and all download files. Enjoy!
If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.
BaseBlock – one 9” square – muslin or No Show Mesh
BackBlock – 9” square
Front– all cut parts from Block 10/CutFiles
Warmand Natural or White Batting – 77/8” square
Block 10 Supplies
1 – Back Block
2 – Bottom Base Muslin
3 – Top Base No Show Mesh
4 – Batting
5 – Background
6 – Center
7 – corners
LOADING THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER
Follow the directions included with the purchase
of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother
Snap Hoop Monster.
Place the muslin flat on the work surface. Center
the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.
Insert the batting into the opening of
the Maker. Place the Top base No Show Mesh over the batting.
Working from the center out, firmly
press the No Show Mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on
the edges of the Maker.
Attach the hoop to the machine.
STITCHING THE BLOCK
Stitch color #1, the block layout. Place glue at fabric #1 as shown in blue.
Place fabric #1, right side up,
aligning the fabric edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #2, the
tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #2.
Place fabric #2, right side down, aligning
the raw edges and stitch color #3, the seam. Place glue at fabric #2.
Flip fabric #2 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #3.
Place fabric #3, right side down, and
stitch color #5, the seam. Place glue at fabric #3.
Flip fabric #3 open and finger press
the seam.Smooth the fabric and stitch
color #6, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam of fabric #4.
Place fabric #4, right side down, and
stitch color #7, the seam. Place glue at fabric #4.
Flip fabric #4 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #8, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #5.
Place fabric #5, right side down, and
stitch color #9. Place glue at fabric #5.
Flip open fabric #5 and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #10.
ADDING THE EMBELLISHMENT
Stitch colors #12, 13, and 14, the
embellishments.
Machine embroidery is supposed to be beautiful. And the process of making beautiful embroidery should be fun and enjoyable. But all of that can be for naught when the experience is dampened by poor results, painful tasks and laborious placement. Enough already! Let’s get the fun back into embroidery.
I have five pet peeves that annoy the daylights out of me when I’m embroidering. And since I’ve been doing this for over 20 years, I’ve come up with solutions. My pet peeves are hoop burn, hand strain, fabric distortion, laborious placement and tedious rehooping. What’s my solution? I ditched the standard hoop about 10 years ago and haven’t looked back.* Let me elaborate.
When knits, textured and napped fabrics are squeezed between two standard embroidery rings, the hoop often leaves a noticeable impression around the embroidery. Those lofty and delicate fibers are now flattened – and possibly permanently flattened. Yikes! The flat frames of Snap Hoop Monster leave no hoop burn – they firmly grip the fabrics and hold them in place without permanently damaging the fibers.
Twenty years of embroidery can wreak havoc on your hands, fingers and wrists. Pushing an inner ring into an outer ring and tightening a screw 5, 10, 20 or maybe 30 times a day is grueling punishment. No more. I just snap that magnetic top frame over the bottom and I’m done!
Fabric distortion is a thing of the past because I pull and tug on the hooped fabric while it’s hooped in Snap Hoop Monster. It’s the inner and outer rings that squeeze and distort fabric – doesn’t happen when fabric is sandwiched between two flat objects – a magnetic top and metal bottom.
I’ve invented all kinds of placement tools but sometimes I want to move the fabric just a smidgen under the needle. With Snap Hoop Monster, I lift the top frame, slide the fabric, drop the frame back in place and press start! No hooping and unhooping to move the fabric a millimeter or two. I like the freedom Snap Hoop Monster gives me right at the machine.
Speaking of the machine, when I use Snap Hoop Monster, I can remove the top frame and advance the fabric to the next hooping without taking the bottom frame off the machine! Oh my, what a time saver! If you’re not sure why I love that benefit so much, take a look at this video. It’s long – about 12 minutes – but you’ll see how I quilt entire quilt (62” x 80”) in one day! Oh baby – I love those Monster hoops!
If you’ve been following along, this month is Hoopapalooza at DIME and in honor of that celebration, The Hoop It Up book is on sale. My Stitching Sister Marie Zinno and I co-wrote this handy hooping tutorial. You’ll find 99 hooping tips in there! You can check it out here: https://www.shop.dzgns.com/collections/specials/products/hoop-it-up
*’Ditched the standard hoop over 10 years’ is an exaggeration. I still use a standard hoop on occasion as you’ll see in the Hoop It Up book!
