Archive of ‘Quilting with your embroidery machine’ category

Block of the Month – Block 9

Block 9 – Wacky Tree Block Instructions

We’re up to Block 9 in the Block of the Month series from the May/June issue of Designs in Machine Embroidery.  You’ll find everything you need for Block 9, video instructions, step-by-step instructions and all download files.  Enjoy!

If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.

Download the files for block nine here: Block 9 

Materials for 1 block

Base Blocks: 9” squares – muslin or No Show Mesh
Front – all cut parts from MBP
Warm and Natural or White Batting: 7 7/8” square

Here are the parts you’ll need for the Big Block

1 – Back Block

2 – Bottom Base Muslin

3 – Top Base No Show Mesh

4 – Batting

5 – background

6 – trunk

7 through 11 – tree parts

12 – sky

13 – side borders

14 – top and bottom borders

LOADING THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER

Follow the directions included with the purchase of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother hoop.

Place the muslin flat on the table. Center the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.

Insert the batting in the opening of the Maker.

Place the Top base No Show Mesh over the batting.

Working from the center out, firmly
press the No Show Mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on the edges of the Maker.

Attach the hoop to the machine. 

STITCHING THE BLOCK

Stitch color #1, the block layout. Place glue at fabric #1. 

Place fabric #1, right side up,
aligning the fabric edges with the stitched outline.  Stitch color 2, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #2.

Place fabric #2, right side down, aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #3. Place glue at fabric #2. 

Flip fabric #2 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #3.

Place fabric #3, right side down,
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. 

Stitch color #5, the seam. Place glue at fabric #3.  

Flip fabric #3 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #6. Place glue at the seam for fabric #4.

Place fabric #4, right side down,
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #7, the seam. Place glue at fabric #4.

Flip fabric #4 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #8. Place glue at the seam for fabric #5. 

Place fabric #5, right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #9, the seam. Place glue at fabric #5.

Flip fabric #5 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #10. Place glue at the seam for fabric #6.

Place fabric #6, right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #11, the seam. Place glue at fabric #7. 

Flip fabric #6 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #12, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #7. 

Place fabric #7 right side face aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #13, the seam. Place glue at fabric #7. 

Flip fabric #7 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #14, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #8.

Place fabric #8 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #15, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #8.

Flip fabric #8 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric stitch color #16.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #9. 

Place fabric #9 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.  Stitch color #17, the seam. Place glue at fabric #9.
 

Flip fabric #9 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color #18, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #10. 

Place fabric #10 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. 

Stitch color #19, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #10. 

Flip fabric #10 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric stitch color #20. Place glue at the seam for fabric #11. 

Place fabric #11 right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #21, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #11. 

Flip fabric #11 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #22, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #12. 

Place fabric #12 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #21, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #11. 

Flip fabric #11 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #22, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #13.

Place fabric #13 right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #25, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #13.

Flip fabric #13 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #26, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #14. 

Place fabric #14 right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #27, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #14. 

Flip fabric #14 open and finger press the seam.  Smooth the fabric and stitch color #28, the tackdown.

Stitch colors #30, 31, 32 and 33 – the embellishments

Congratulations your Wacky Tree block is complete!

 

Block of the Month – Block 8

Block 8 – Storm Geese Block Instructions

If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.

Download the files for block eight here: Block 8 

Materials Needed – for 1 block
Base Blocks 9” squares – muslin or No Show Mesh
Front – all cut parts from MBP
Warm and Natural or White Batting: 7 7/8” square

Here are the parts you’ll need for the Storm Geese Block

1 – Back Block

2 – Bottom Base Muslin

3 – Top Base No Show Mesh

4 – Batting

5 – Left Centers

6 – Left sides

7 – Right Center

8 – Right sides

LOADING
THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER

Follow the directions included with the purchase
of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother hoop.

 

Place the muslin flat on the table. Center the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.

Insert the batting in the opening of the Maker.

Place the Top base No Show Mesh over the batting.

Working from the center out, firmly press the No Show Mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on the edges of the Maker.

Attach the hoop to the machine.

 

STITCHING THE BLOCK

Stitch color #1, the block layout.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place glue at fabric #1 as shown.

Place fabric #1, right side up, aligning the fabric edges with the stitched outline.  Stitch color 2, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #2.

Place fabric #2, right side down, aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #3. Place glue at fabric #2 as shown.

Flip fabric #2 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #3.

Place fabric #3, right side down,
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. 

Stitch color #5, the seam. Place glue at fabric #3 as shown.

Flip fabric #3 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #6. Place glue at the seam for fabric #4.

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #4, right side down,
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #7, the seam. Place glue at fabric #4.
 

 

Flip fabric #4 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #8. Place glue at the seam for fabric #5.

Place fabric #5, right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #9, the seam.  Place glue at fabric #5 as shown.

Flip fabric #5 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #10.

Place glue on fabric #6.

 

Place fabric #6, right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #11. Place glue at fabric #7, the seam.

Flip fabric #6 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #12, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #7. 

Place fabric #7 right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #13, the seam. Place glue at fabric #7. 

Flip fabric #7 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #14, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #8.

Place fabric #8 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #15, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #8.

Flip fabric #8 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #16. Place glue at the seam for fabric #9.

Place fabric #9 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.  Stitch color #17, the seam. Place glue at fabric #9.
 

 

Flip fabric #9 open and finger press the seam. Stitch color #18, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #10. 

Place fabric #10 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. 

Stitch color #19, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #10. 

Flip fabric #10 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #20. Place glue at the seam for fabric #11.

Place fabric #11 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #21, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #11.

Flip fabric #11 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #22, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #12.

Place fabric #12 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #21, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #11 .

Flip fabric #11 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #22, the tackdown. 

Stitch colors #26, 27, 28 and 29, the embellishments.

Congratulations your Storm Geese block is complete!!!

 

 

 

Block of the Month – Block 7

Block 7 – DSDS Block Instructions

The May/June 2019 copy of your magazine subscription is on it’s way to you – most likely you’ve already received it.  So if you’re making the blocks of our year-long Block of the Month, then you’re ready for Block 7.  Block 8 and 9 will be published here on the blog over the several weeks.  Enjoy!


If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.

Download the files for block seven here: Block 7 

 Materials Needed for 1 block
Base Blocks  9” square – muslin or No Show Mesh
Front – all cut parts from DSDS Block 7/Cut Files
Warm and Natural or White Batting:  7 7/8” square

Block 7 Supplies

1 – Back Block

2 – Bottom Base Muslin

3 – Top Base No Show Mesh

4 – Batting

5 – Center

6 – square corners

7 – diamond

8 – outside square corners

LOADING THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER

Follow the directions included with the purchase of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother hoop.

Place the muslin flat on the table. Center the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.

Insert the batting in the opening of
the Maker.

Place the Top base No Show Mesh over the batting.

Working from the center out, firmly
press the No Show Mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on the edges of the Maker.

 

Attach the hoop to the machine.

 

STITCHING THE BLOCK

Stitch color #1, the block layout. Place glue at fabric #1 as shown in blue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #1, right side up,
aligning the fabric edges with the stitched outline.  Stitch color 2, the tackdown. Place glue at
the seam for fabric #2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #2, right side down, aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #3. Place glue at fabric #2 as shown in blue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #2 open and finger press
the seam.  Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #3.

 

Place fabric #3, right side down,
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. 

Stitch color #5, the seam. Place glue at fabric #3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #3 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #6.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #4.

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #4, right side down,
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #7, the seam. Place glue at fabric #4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #4 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #8. Place glue at the seam for fabric #5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #5, right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #9, the seam. Place glue at fabric #5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #5 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #10. Place glue at the seam for fabric #6 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #6, right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #11, the seam. Place glue at fabric #7 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #6 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #12, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #7 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #7 right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #13, the seam. Place glue at fabric #7 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #7 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #14, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #8 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #8 right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #15, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #8 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #8 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #16. Place glue at the seam for fabric #9 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #9 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.  Stitch color #17, the seam. Place glue at fabric #9 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #9 open and finger press
the seam. Stitch color #18, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #10.

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #10 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. 

Stitch color #19, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #10 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #10 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #20. Place glue at the seam for fabric #11 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #11 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #21, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #11 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #11 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #22, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #12 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #12 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #21, the tackdown. Place glue at fabric #11 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #11 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch and  color #22, the tackdown. Place glue at the seam for fabric #13 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place fabric #13 right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #25, the seam. Place glue at fabric #13 as shown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip fabric #13 open and finger press the seam. Smooth
the fabric and stitch color #26, the tackdown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quilting the Block

Stitch colors #28, 29 and 30, the
embellishments and quilting.

Congratulations your DSDS block is complete!

 

 

 

5 Biggest Mistakes Quilters Make

Finishing a quilt is quite rewarding.  After all, you decided on the pattern, hand-picked the fabrics, cut all the pieces, sewed every seam and then, if you’re like me, hesitated on the next step: how to quilt it.  What designs? What thread? Where do I start? How long will it take?

At 1:00 CST PM on April 3 on Facebook Live, I’ll point out the 5 biggest mistakes quilters make and how to avoid them.  If you have a quilt you want to finish (and who doesn’t have quilt tops begging to be finished?), then join me for 5 Biggest Mistakes Quilters Make.  Of course, by quilter, I mean embroiderers who quilt with their embroidery machines!

How do I know what the mistakes are?  Well, I’ve written four books on quilting with your embroidery machine and I can tell you I have made all 5 of those mistakes – and many more!  I’ve learned so much along the way that it would be selfish of me to keep that knowledge to myself.  So join me and learn how to avoid the most common mistakes quilters make when quilting with their embroidery machine. And then you can finish your quilts with confidence.

Why Facebook Live?  Well, you can ask questions and get answers.  It’s fun and spontaneous and I hope you’ll be a part of it.  Just go to https://www.facebook.com/DesignsInMachineEmbroidery/ and watch at 1:00 PM CST.  Hope to see you there!

 

2019 Block of the Month – Block 6

Block 6 – Big Block Instructions

If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.

Download the files for block six here: Block 6 

Recommended Fabric for 1 block

Base Block: one 9” square muslin
Stabilizer: one 9” square No Show mesh
Front – patches from OnPoint/CutFiles
Warm and Natural batting: 7 7/8” square

Big Block Supplies

P1040743a

1 – Back Block

2 – Bottom Base Muslin

3 – Top Base No Show Mesh

4 – Batting

5 – top left corner

6 – right inside

7 – right outside

8 – bottom inside

9 – bottom right corner

10 – bottom outside

LOADING THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER

Follow the directions included with the purchase of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother hoop.

Place the muslin flat on the table.

Center the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.

Insert the batting into the opening of the Maker.

Place the No Show mesh over the batting.

Working from the center out, firmly
press the No Show mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on the edges of the Maker.

Attach the hoop to the machine.

STITCHING THE BLOCK

Stitch color #1, the block layout.

 

 

Place glue at fabric #1 as shown in
blue.

Place fabric #1, right side up,
aligning the fabric edges with the stitched outline.  Stitch color #2, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #2 as shown.

Place fabric #2, right side down, aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #3, the seam. 

Place glue at fabric #2 as shown.

Flip fabric #2 open and finger press
the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #3 as shown.

Place fabric #3 – right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch Color #5, the seam. 

 

 

 

Place glue at fabric #3 as shown.

Place fabric #3 – right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch Color #5, the seam. 

Place glue at the seam for fabric #4 as  shown.

Place fabric #4, right side down,
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch Color #7, the seam.

 

 

 

Place glue at fabric #4 as shown.

Flip fabric #4 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #8, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #5 as shown.

Place patch #5 – right side down aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #9, the seam.

Place glue at fabric #5 as shown.

 

 

Flip fabric #5 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #10, the tackdown.

ADDING THE BLOCK EMBELLISHMENT

Place glue at bottom right for the
corner applique.

Place the bottom right corner piece, right side up.

Stitch colors #12, 13, 14, 15 and 16, the embellishments.

Congratulations your Big block is complete.06 P1050053a

 

2019 Block of the Month – Block 5

Block 5 – Handbag Block Instructions

If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.

Download the files for block five here: Block 5

Recommended Fabric for 1 block

Base Block: one 9” square muslin
Stabilizer: one 9” square No Show mesh
Front – patches from OnPoint/CutFiles
Warm and Natural batting: 7 7/8” square

Handbag Block Supplies

P1040766a

1 – Back Block

2 – Bottom Base Muslin

3 – Top Base No Show Mesh

4 – Batting

5 – top left

6 – left handle

7 – center

8 – right handle

9 – top right

10 – bottom right

11 – bag

12 – bottom left

LOADING THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER

Follow the directions included with the purchase of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother hoop.

Place the muslin flat on the table.

Center the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.

Place the batting into the opening of the Maker.

Place the No Show Mesh over the batting.

Working from the center out, firmly press the No Show mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on
the edges of the Maker.

Attach the hoop to the machine.

STITCHING THE BLOCK

Stitch color #1.

Place glue at fabric #1 as shown in blue.

Place fabric #1, right side up, aligning the fabric edges with the stitched outline.  Stitch color #2, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #2 as shown in blue.

Place fabric #2 – right side down, aligning the fabric edges with the stitched outline.

Stitch color #3, the tackdown.

Place glue at fabric #2 as shown. 

 

Flip fabric #2 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #3 as shown in blue.

Place fabric #3 – right side down, aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.  Stitch Color #5, the seam.

 

Place glue for fabric #3 as shown in blue.

Flip fabric #3 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #6, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #4 as shown in blue.

Place fabric #4, right side down, aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.  Stitch Color #7, the seam.

Place glue at fabric #4 as shown in blue.

Flip fabric #4 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #8, the tackdown.

 

Place glue at the seam for fabric #5 as shown in blue.

Place fabric #4, right side down, aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #9, the seam.

 

Place glue at fabric #5 as shown.

Flip fabric #5 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #10, the tackdown.

 

Place glue at the seam for fabric #6 as shown.

Place fabric #6, right side down, aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #11, the seam.

Place glue at fabric #6 as shown.

Flip fabric #6 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #12, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #7 as shown.

Place fabric #7, right side down, aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.  Stitch color #13, the seam.

Place glue at fabric #7 as shown.

 

Flip fabric #7 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #14, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #8 as shown.

 

Place fabric #8, right side down, aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch color #15, the seam.

 

Place glue at fabric #8 as shown.

Flip fabric #8 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #16, the tackdown.

Stitch colors #18, #19 and #20 – the embellishments – Skip color #21
Congratulations your Handbag block is complete.

05 P1050052a

 

2019 Block of the Month Block 4

Block 4 – Pieced Octagon Block Instructions

If you prefer watching the video directly on YouTube, click here.

Download the files for block four here:  Block 4

Recommended Fabric for Block 4

Base Block: one 9” square muslin
Stabilizer: one 9” square No Show mesh
Front– patches from OnPoint/CutFiles
Warm and Natural batting: 7 7/8” square 

Pieced Octagon Block Supplies

1: Back Block

2: Muslin

3: No Show Mesh

6: Top and bottom

5 – Center

4: Batting

7: Sides

8: Corners

LOADING THE MONSTER BLOCK MAKER

Follow the directions included with the purchase of Monster Block Maker to apply the Maker to a 200mm x 200mm Baby Lock/Brother hoop.

Place the muslin flat on the table.

Center the Monster Block Maker on the muslin.

Insert the batting in the opening of the Maker.

Place the No Show mesh over the batting.

Working from the center out, firmly press the No Show mesh (top) and muslin (bottom) onto the adhesive tape on the edges of the Maker.

Attach the hoop to the machine.

STITCHING THE BLOCK

Stitch color #1, the block layout.

Place glue at patch #1 as shown in blue.

Place fabric #1, right side up,
aligning the fabric edges with the stitched outline.  Stitch color #2, the tackdown.
 

Place glue at the seam for fabric #2.

Place fabric #2, right side down,
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch Color #3. 

Place glue at patch #2 as shown in blue.

Flip fabric #2 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch color #4, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #3.

Place fabric #3, right side down,
aligning fabric edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #5.

Place glue at patch #3.

Flip fabric #3 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #6, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #4 as shown in blue.

Place fabric #4, right side down,
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline.

Stitch Color #7, the seam.

Place glue at patch #4 as shown in blue.

Flip fabric #4 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #8, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #5 as shown in blue.

Place patch #5 – right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #9, the seam.
 

Place glue at fabric #5 as shown in blue.

Flip fabric #5 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #10, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #6 as shown in blue.

Place patch #6 – right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #11, the seam.
 

Place glue at fabric #6 as shown in blue.

Flip fabric #6 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #12, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #7.

Place patch #7 – right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #13, the seam.

Place glue at patch #7 as shown in blue.

Flip fabric #7 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #14, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #8 as shown in blue.

Place patch #9 – right side down
aligning the raw edge with the stitched outline. Stitch Color #15, the seam.

Place glue at fabric #8 as shown in blue.

Flip fabric #8 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #16, the tackdown.

Place glue at the seam for fabric #9 as shown in blue.

Flip fabric #9 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #17, the tackdown.

Place glue at patch #9 as shown in blue.

Flip fabric #9 open and finger press the seam. Smooth the fabric and stitch Color #18, the tackdown. 

Quilting the Block

Stitch colors #19, #20 and #21, the embellishments.

Congratulations your Pieced Octagon block is complete!

Behind the Seams: Creating The Flower Box Quilt

An Interview with Eileen Roche by Denise Holguin

DH: Eileen, you are a very busy individual! You manage the production of a magazine, write weekly blogs, do appearances at events, invent new products… AND you had time to design and create a new quilt for the Flower Box Quilt book. Wow! What is your secret to finding time to create this new quilt project?

ER: I leave and breathe embroidery! And I have a passion for embroidered quilts. I just love using my embroidery machine to decorate quilt blocks and quilt the entire quilt.

DH: When you started designing the Flower Box Quilt, did you have a clear path of what you wanted or did the project evolve over time?

ER: I had a basic layout in mind as I was inspired by Amy Gibson’s The Quilt Block Cookbook. Of course, along the way, a project guides me in a new direction.

Flower Box Quilt_Designs in Machine Embroidery

Amy Gibson’s The Quilt Block Cookbook via instagram @karenlewistextiles

DH: You used e-stitches on at least one of the blocks in the Flower Box Quilt. To those unfamiliar with an e-stitch, will you tell us more?

ER: E-stitch, also known as the blanket stitch – is a common hand (or sewing machine) applique technique. Often, the stitching is shown in a contrasting color. In the Flower Box Quilt, I matched the thread to the applique fabric to let the fabric shine – I didn’t want to introduce a wide line of stitches (think satin column) – just a gentle, almost indiscernible line of stitching. I like it.

DH: Your projects always look impeccable! Do you ever make mistakes? How do you overcome them?

ER: Thank you!
I make mistakes ALL the TIME! Frankly, if I wasn’t for the mistakes I’ve made, I wouldn’t be the embroiderer I am today. When I do make a mistake (which I do with every project), I rarely throw out the project. I figure out how to rectify the situation and move on. One of my biggest shortcomings is, I’m always excited to finish the project – to figure out if the design and techniques that I created will work as planned. I think if I worked at a slower pace, I would eliminate some mistakes. But I also know, that a slow pace does not meet deadlines! It’s a catch-22.

DH: What is the one take-away you want readers to learn from the Flower Box Quilt book?

ER: You don’t have to make a large quilt to learn all the techniques. Start with a manageable size, like a table runner or lap size quilt and you’ll master the techniques upon completion.

DH: Do you have a favorite quilt block in this collection?
ER: Hmm…that’s a tough one. Probably Block 1 – I just love those flowers!

Flower Box Quilt_Designs in Machine Embroidery


For more information about Eileen’s Flower Box Quilt and its companion product, The Quilting Stabilizer Kit, visit the Designs in Machine Embroidery website at https://www.shop.dzgns.com.

Join Eileen on March 20 at 1:00 CST on Facebook Live.  She’ll be sharing her Top 6 Tips for Machine Embroidered Applique!  See you there!

Flower Box Quilt_Designs With Machine Embroidery

What’s Your Favorite Embroidery Tool?

Perfect Embroidery Pro is definitely my favorite embroidery tool.  This user-friendly software gives me everything I need to create one-of-a-kind embroidery projects.  Yesterday, my latest book, The Flower Box Quilt, was released.  It’s a sampler quilt with a modern layout plus a table runner bonus project.  The 68-page book is loaded with tips and techniques on stabilizing quilting fabric, machine embroidered applique and quilting.

I used Perfect Embroidery Pro through the entire design process. From creating the embroidered applique elements to designing the custom quilting on the blocks to the quilting on the sashing and of course, the overall quilting in the large negative space areas.

How did I go about designing a large-scale project like this? One stitch at a time. Literally. And Perfect Embroidery Pro made that easy.  I drew each flower. Then converted the artwork into applique.  I used the copy, paste and rotate features to set the four elements into 12” blocks.

Of course, each flower had to be tested and tweaks were made along the way.  But as long as I worked in Perfect Embroidery Pro, I could save every version until I was satisfied. Then the fun part started.  I visited my local quilt shop to select bright, cheery fabrics.

Once each block was stitched, it was time to concentrate on the quilting.  I just uploaded an image of each block into PEP and doodled.  PEP gave me the freedom to experiment. I saved several versions of each block before getting to the stitching stage.  I love how I can audition ideas without stitching!

If you’d like to purchase The Flower Box Quilt book, click here for more information. This week, on Wednesday, March 20, I’ll be doing Facebook Live at 1:00 CST to share my top tips for professional results with machine embroidered applique.  Hope to see you there!

 

 

6 Tips for Continuous Line Designs

Recently, I’ve been digitizing quilting designs – continuous line designs in Inspirations’ Perfect Embroidery Pro.  Continuous line designs present challenges to digitizers that are all their own.  Since the designs are just one line of thread, there’s not a lot of room for error. But the biggest challenge may be in the pathing – where the needle will travel throughout the design. Sometimes this is intuitive and sometimes, not! I’ve learned a lot as I’ve worked on these designs. Here are six tips that have kept me on track.

Start with pencil and paper. Sketching a continuous line design is the best way to address the pathing. Even if it’s digital clip art, print it out and trace over it. If you have to lift the pencil to draw the next area, there’s going to be a break in the stitching.  Find another solution like backtracking (retracing over previous stitches) or looping (adding an extra design element like a vein on a leaf) to get to the next area.

Dive in –Go to the software and get started. You’ll find the time spent sketching/tracing has already focused your brain on the task. Sketching is like stretching exercises before a run – they prep your mind and body for the task ahead. Start drawing the design and adding nodes.  It will flow faster than you think. Don’t worry if it looks like a mess at first. You can tweak each node later.

The Close Line feature is a time saver. If you’re drawing a closed shape, at the last node, right mouse click and select Close Line from the drop down menu. The shape will instantly close and you won’t waste time wondering why your continuous line turned into a two-ply. In Perfect Embroidery Pro, draw the shape, (setting modes with a click of the mouse), when the shape is complete, right mouse click to end the line.  Select the Shape tool, right mouse click and select Close Line.

The Slow Draw tool is your best friend.  Before you begin tweaking the nodes, click on the Slow Draw tool. This tool allows you to focus on the pathing. Keep a close eye on the screen as the design stitches.  Get your pathing right, and then tweak the nodes.

Zoom in. Magnifying the stitches on the screen helps you see exactly where they lie in the design.  This is quite helpful when perfecting individual shapes within a design. There are several ways to zoom in on a design in Inspriations’ software programs. The most obvious is to click on the magnifying glass.

Or select a percentage from the drop down menu at the top tool bar. I

It’s important to remember when you are zoomed in, you are seeing a magnified view of the stitches – not what it will appear when sewn. So don’t stress out too much!  Pull back to actual size often to keep it in perspective.

Save As often. You really can’t have too many versions of your work. Go to File/Save As and rename the design every time. Eventually, you’ll be satisfied with the final design and you delete the earlier versions.  But during the design phase, it’s wise to keep each version. Just go for something basic like HeartV1, HeartV2, HeartV3, etc. Use the same method for all your digitizing and you’ll know where to find your latest and greatest.

I’ve found these tips to be real time-savers. I seem to be immersed in quilting designs right now – there’s so many beautiful designs dancing in my head! I’d love to know what you’ve been working on.

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